Ardnamurchan AD/07.21:05
Official Bottling | 46.8% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Continuing an upward trajectory
This Should’ve Been a Lochlea Review
Did you manage to pick up a bottle of inaugural Lochlea at retail recently? I was unsuccessful, hence why this isn’t a review of Scotland’s latest new distillery debut.
The absolute carnage that surrounds each incoming limited release and anything from Springbank, is enough to dissuade most drinkers from even trying to bag a bottle. I get it, I really do and sympathise. During a recent online tasting I was hosting, the chatter turned to the disillusionment with whisky as it is nowadays and looking elsewhere for whisky purchases.
Unfortunately, there are no magic tricks or backstage passes to guarantee the bottle that you seek and the problem is seemingly becoming worse. Many are waiting for the bubble to burst and have been for a while, let’s be honest. Others hope that post-pandemic, the profit chasers will return to concert tickets, trainers or whatever they did previously. We can hope as that’s all that’s left for many of us. The whole situation should turn our attention elsewhere; away from the prime targets and to lesser whiskies, distilleries and bottlers. Today, there is so much whisky available at retail than ever before and Dramface will help you uncover those hidden gems.
The whole debate, watching the Lochlea and Springbank fallout prompted me to consider whether new distilleries are doing things right. Now, no one is perfect, but we can see some distilleries bottling bang on 3 years and a day, releasing an overpriced single malt to an overly eager market. What I’d love to see – thanks to our alias format – is an industry insider giving us the perspective on launching a new brand or distillery. The considerations, pressures and restraints. For now, I can only give my thoughts as the end consumer, or more importantly, the end consumer wanting to open the bottle.
“What I’d love to see – thanks to our alias format – is an industry insider giving us the perspective on launching a new brand or distillery”
Daftmill is tied to Berry Brothers & Rudd, who have been using the ballot system along with providing stock to independent bottlers. There is never enough to go around and I have seen at least one indie complaining they’ve been struck off the Daftmill list because they wouldn’t stock other Berry Bros products. This is out of the hands of Daftmill and the practice isn’t anything new. Gordon & MacPhail would like retailers to stock some of their lesser popular releases to ensure first dibs on the more glamorous products. The tactic isn’t specific to whisky and what’s important to remember is that the distilleries have very little say – if at all – in any of this.
We’ve seen an extension of this with an exclusive London retailer asking that if you want to purchase the latest Bimber or Nc’Nean, you’ll also receive an accompanying bottle of sherry or whatever. Again, out of the control of the distillery, but the extra cost didn’t stop these and other releases from selling out promptly. I’ve even seen one online retailer demand that you purchase a core official release from another distillery when selling the inaugural Torabhaig, by automatically putting it into your basket.
A welcome recent addition to the Daftmill ballot was the option to purchase a sample bottle as a booby prize. This spreads out the whisky and gives everyone an opportunity to try it over a couple of drams. The move that proved popular with those that had the true motivation about the contents and no doubt we’ll see some appearing at auction anyway. Similarly, Springbank has an impossible task of late including satisfying its own member Society demands. In 2021 they vatted several 28 year old casks to boost an outturn release to a healthy 2966 bottles. Released as a 20cl, this was made available for £110 and I debated it, but passed as I was in the midst of paying for a 2 year old’s Christmas. Fortunately, leftover bottles were offered to members in January and I was able to pick up one.
Around this release and several others, we’re also seeing proactive action taken by the fine dudes at Whiskybase to prevent their platform being twisted to suit other motivations from some users:
‘As always: we delete messages that are not a review of the bottle itself. Reviews and tasting notes are allowed. Price developments, investing, selling, buying or giving an opinion about what other people should do with a bottle don't belong on this page.
These discussions can take place in the groups or somewhere else but not at a Whiskybase bottle page. As we have seen this never leads to a proper discussion or people are not open for the idea that there are drinkers, collectors, investors and flippers and they all have their own right. We are also not setup too moderate these discussions on thousands of pages.
For now, we leave the RRP message.
We also remove bottles that are being sold without actually having the bottle in your possession. Pre-sales not allowed.
Fake ratings, counter ratings (high and low) or ratings that are used to influence the score in a way that is not considered genuine will be looked and removed if needed. All is considered a violation of the general terms and will lead to the closure of the account’.
Whiskybase isn’t alone as the madness has infested all corners of the online environment with various Facebook groups being shut down and others having to change behaviours.
Like so many other distilleries, Nc’Nean has adopted a batch approach to its schedule and has sprinkled their offering with some single casks of late. I’m not a huge fan of their younger distillate – they do have a longer-term spirit that I am excited about – and checking their website, we’re up to batch 12 and counting. The STR is overplayed and I’m indifferent to the number of batches, but if this means that you can pick up a bottle to experience their whisky without being fleeced on the secondary market, then that’s a success.
One distillery that’s managed to navigate these choppy waters successfully (in my opinion) is Ardnamurchan. They waited a little while longer than some of their counterparts to bottle and that came through on the profile alongside some solid wood. While this article is mainly for their AD/07.21:05 bottling, I’m also taking the opportunity to dust off the debut batch to compare. As a bonus, a mate gave me a sample of his private cask that’s currently maturing at the distillery (thanks, Mally) so we’ll be including my impressions of this in-progress work.
Bonus Review
Ardnamurchan AD/09.20:01 2020 Official Release, 46.8% ABV
£45 retail
Nose
Apples, orange peelings and a wisp of peat. Malty and a pleasing density, a flat ginger beer and coastal saltiness. A mineral note and crackers.
Palate
More peat and a fuller texture, caramel, chocolate, olives and a pleasant smokiness. A hint of soot on the finish and a sense of balance with the spirit. Salted crisps, soya sauce, a BBQ dynamic and earthy in parts.
From memory, this is a solid start and certainly delivered more than many other inaugural releases that I have experienced. A noticeable degree of blending skill is also on display, which is helped by the decades Adelphi have under their belts with various releases.
Let’s kick on to the latest batch which is still available at retail; highlighting that the investors and flippers have dropped this distillery (in batch form at least) like Pierre-Emerick Aubameyang at Arsenal. Bottled at 46.8%, this is an even split of peated versus unpeated distillate and 65% ex-bourbon and 35% ex-sherry cask maturation. Prices vary, but expect to pay around £50 with our friends at Royal Mile Whiskies stocking the later release of AD/10.21:06 (this could become confusing after several more batches) for £44.95 – a great price.
Score: 6/10
Review
Ardnamurchan AD/07.21:05 July 2021 Official Release, 46.8% ABV
£45 retail
Nose
An enjoyable level of peat greets you and doesn’t overpower other aromas. Quite a mix going on here with redberries, peaches, honey and plimsolls. Orange potpourri, damp wood, Pink Wafers and strawberries. Malted biscuits, banana chews and vanilla with a twist of lemon wrapped in smoke. Caramel popcorn, chilli flakes.
Palate
Smoked toffee is what I’m reminded of initially as this young and yet pleasant whisky makes its arrival. Red grapes, grapefruit, sappy in places and honey roast ham that moves into the peppery finish. Not rich or hugely layered, but rather wholesome, satisfying and well priced.
Score: 7/10
Bonus Review
Ardnamurchan Cask 803P ‘Geesabrek II’
Nose
Coastal moss, brine, allspice and cashew nuts. Maple glazed bacon, earth ginger root, a rich toffee and dirty mushrooms. It’s quite assured already with a pleasing amount of nutmeg, liquorice, chocolate and ash. Also, Ovaltine which isn’t something I’ve tried in years.
Palate
More chocolate and soot coming through. Mainly black spices with peppercorns and cloves. Woody in places, chalk dust. Burning heather and tar bring some robust flavours alongside an earthiness that underpins everything.
Score: 6/10
The Dregs
The AD/09 showed promise when it arrived and this has come through in style with the AD/07 that continues the upward trajectory. The private cask bottling is very enjoyable and showcases the strong wood quality and promise of the distillate being produced. I’d quite happily drink that now and I expect you would enjoy it as well. There is still time to let things develop, as long as that woodiness is monitored and kept in line.
Personally, I’ve had so many youthful whiskies in recent times that your expectations are diluted and you begin to accept that the cask foreplay, marketing and overly positive reviews are right and your senses are out of touch. Such releases are really good and a high in the 80s score is laid at their feet in honour.
That’s the relentless nature of the onslaught of new releases. So many utilise the same methodology and glamourous presentation that it leaves me cold and dubious. Yet for all the new distilleries that come and go, utilising such tactics, they are mostly here briefly and gone tomorrow to work on their next bottling. Existing for collectors and shareholders. Time will be the ultimate judge and given that opportunity we may see their potential somewhat realised, or languishing in mediocrity.
But it is unfair to tar all new distilleries with the same brush stroke. There are some who are doing well and making a worthwhile impression. Ardnamurchan is one such offering and managing to remain affordable and widely distributed. I’ve recently seen the AD/07 on special for an impressive £35. It has bags of flavour and character and is well worth your time and appreciation. At that price, I’ll more than likely buy another as you cannot go wrong with it; well-made and beyond its years. It’s what other distilleries should be aspiring towards and not just a quick boost to their cash flow.
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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