Signatory Vintage vs Decadent Drinks | Various ABV

The Joy of the Hidden Workhorses

It seems that scarcely a week passes without another malt whisky rabbit hole opening up before me. As Albert Einstein once observed, “Once you stop learning, you start dying.”

With that in mind, it feels only right to lean into these diversions with as much energy and curiosity as the moment demands.

Over the past six months, I’ve stumbled across two independent bottlings from the same distillery; a name I recognised and by recognised what I mean is that I had heard the name but I knew almost nothing about it. The more I thought about it, the more it struck me that I couldn’t recall ever seeing an official release from them.

That distillery is Teaninich. It has been a stalwart of Diageo’s blending stocks, a quiet but essential contributor to the needs of Johnnie Walker and other blends. Yet as a single malt in its own right, Teaninich is rarely seen.

First thing first; it seems an odd name, so what’s that about? The name Teaninich is believed to derive from the Gaelic phrase "taigh-na-h'inich" which means "house of the monks" or, alternatively, "taigh an aonaich" meaning "house on the hill".

The "house on the hill" meaning is a more widely accepted translation for the name of the distillery and ties in with the nearby Teaninich Castle, whose owner established the distillery in 1817.

Located in the Highlands near Alness, just down the road from Dalmore, it’s a place I’ve driven past many times without giving it much notice.

Historical records, such as Alfred Barnard’s The Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom, tell us that Teaninich was founded in 1800 (though elsewhere I have read it as 1817) and by 1884 was producing and selling 74,000 gallons (around 336,000 litres) per year. Today its scale is far far greater, with an annual output of up to 10 million litres. I believe that makes it the third largest in the Diageo portfolio after Roseisle and Glen Ord.

Despite this long history and impressive capacity, official bottlings remain scarce. The best known is the 10-year-old Flora & Fauna expression, with the occasional cameo in Diageo’s annual Special Releases - such as the recent 8-year-old single grain.

Beyond these rare appearances, the distillery’s true character is most often encountered through independent bottlers, who offer single cask or small batch releases that hint at its range and potential. Teaninich is not alone in this. Other Diageo ‘workhorse’ distilleries that rarely release official bottlings include:

Glen Ord: long a blending malt, though it has gained more visibility in recent years.
Dailuaine: prized for its meaty, sherried style, but usually reserved for blends or indie bottlers.
Auchroisk: occasionally seen in Flora & Fauna, but otherwise kept largely in the blending domain.

These distilleries, along with others, form the backbone of Scotch whisky. Their relative obscurity is not a reflection of quality, but of strategy: owners like Diageo choose to preserve their output for blending consistency rather than build them as single malt brands.

Encountering a Teaninich from an independent bottler can therefore feel like uncovering a hidden dram.

Distilleries like Teaninich remind us that some of the most compelling spirits are those that whisper. There’s a sense of discovery that only comes from seeking out such overlooked drams.

These two today are at divergent points of my whisky universe.

Review 1/2

Teaninich 13yo, 2011, Decadent Drams, 2024 release, first-fill bourbon hogshead, 54.5% ABV
£87.95 paid. Incredibly, still some out there.

I had tried this recently in the Bon Accord - it was bought for me by someone who is very knowledgeable about whisky. It was instantly captivating and the very next day I took to finding out if there was still any available out there to buy. There was! Royal Mile Whiskies had it in stock and it quickly got added to the basket. Released in December 2024 and only 258 bottles, I can’t understand why this hasn’t gone.

This was matured in a first fill hogshead for 13 years before being bottled by Decadent Drinks. As you would expect it is Natural Colour and Unchillfiltered.

Score: 8/10

**Something special.**
***TL;DR***
*A bourbon cask standard bearer*

Nose

This opens with a soft vanilla and slightly salted caramel fudge. There’s a lively bit of orangey citrus with some gentle herbal notes underneath, together with a hint of chamomile and a wee floral edge.

Palate

This has a typical bourbon cask taste, but it’s complex. It is bright and fruity immediately, grapefruity and orangey, a bit heavier than a young bourbon cask but definite honey. It is a bit oily and a little waxy; prominently buttery with notes of coconut and some lemongrass.

There is some really low background peat to me, but others may find that more dominant.

It has a really long, warming, pleasant finish with a bit of spice but predominantly a very long-lasting Campari and Cointreau mix.

The Dregs

I found this one absolutely brilliant. Fresh and bright with loads of complexity in it. Very moreish.

The last couple of months I have had so many great first fill bourbon cask bottlings, and now I am actively seeking them out they seem to just keep coming.

For the price, this is a bargain. I feel I’ve had some great drams recently - and this is amongst the best.

Score: 8/10

Review 2/2

Teaninich 17yo, 2007, Signatory Vintage, 2024 release, PX hogshead finish, 55.4% ABV
£87.95 paid. Incredibly, still some out there.

This was yet another auction purchase for me. I had never tried a Teaninich when I bought this, but I knew that any Signatory Vintage I’d had before was good – oh, and I really love the look of their decanter bottles.

This Teaninich was distilled on the 22nd of November 2007 and finished in cask #1, a 1st fill Pedro Ximenez hogshead. 345 bottles were filled on the 18th December 2024.

Score: 7/10

**Very good indeed.**
***TL;DR***
*A very classy sherry cask dram*

Nose

There is a real jammy sweetness to it; dark fruits – cherry and blackcurrant, oh and raisins. A bit of spice but not too much.

Palate

It opens with rich, fruity notes of black cherry jam, with the PX influence adding a gentle, honey-tinged sweetness. Alongside the darker fruit tones - led by plum - there are lighter flashes of orange zest and strawberry. A subtle woody character comes through carrying hints of tobacco. The texture is oily and almost chewy, layered with a touch of nutty depth and a firm thread of pepper and warming spice.

The finish is medium to long, comfortably warm, and lingers with dark fruits, tobacco, and spice.

The Dregs

As someone who is easily put off by certain sherry cask finishes, I would say this is tremendous. Very well balanced, and by balanced I mean the sherry doesn’t overpower the spirit: very enjoyable.

Score: 7/10

The Final Dregs

You can say what you like about Diageo - corporate behemoth, brand‑driven juggernaut, the whisky world’s equivalent of a Bond villain - but the fact remains, they own distilleries that quietly churn out some magnificent liquid.

Credit where it’s due, the independent bottlers may deserve applause for their cask choices and presentation, but let’s not forget that without the distiller laying down the spirit in the first place, there’d be nothing for them to present.

I had two contrasting Teaninichs in front of me - one from a first‑fill bourbon cask, the other from sherry. To say they were different would be an understatement. If you’d poured them blind and told me they came from opposite ends of Scotland, I probably would have believed you. If there’s a “house style” in there, I’ll admit it’s still hiding from me.

And that’s the thing: I can’t yet claim to “love the Teaninich style,” because I don’t think I’ve quite grasped what that style is supposed to be. But I loved both of these bottlings.

Whatever Teaninich is, or isn’t, it’s clearly capable of producing spirit that shines in very different guises. That’s enough to make me sit up and pay attention.

I’ll be keeping my eyes peeled for more indie Teaninichs, because if the distillery won’t tell me what it’s all about, maybe the bottlers will.

So yes, Diageo may be a juggernaut, but tucked inside that machine are distilleries like Teaninich - workhorses that, when given the chance, can surprise us with a turn of brilliance. And if the official bottlings remain elusive, well, that just makes the hunt through the independents all the more rewarding.

My whisky journey continues to wind its way through unexpected waypoints. I hope these rabbit holes continue to open up ahead of me.

Tried these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. CC

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