Glen Garioch 15yo
Official ‘Sherry Cask’ Bottling | 53.7% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
A spicy, nutty and warming Sherry blanket
Reshuffling to refocus.
About twice a year I go through my growing stock of whisky bottles and I reshuffle them based on what my taste and curiosity are telling me. The bottles I am more keen on trying next will move to the front of the shelf, some of the floor bottles (yes, I got to that stage, embarrassingly) will get a more permanent home.
Some less favourite bottles might move to the back of the shelf, or, worse case, to the “to be used for cocktails” pile, while the ones down to the dregs will be lined up to provide their final drams of joy and saluted for their service to whisky enjoyment.
Alright Hughie, you may be thinking, cut the crap: you are just reorganising your whisky collection. No need to wax on about it.
First of all, I am not a big fan of the term ‘collection’: these bottles are for drinking, not for keeping so that term just doesn’t sit right in my head. But, apart from this wee nomenclature disagreement, you have a point. And yet, that does not diminish the value that the mere reshuffling of bottles has. It is a moment to take stock of the whisky journey, changing personal taste and even my own whisky perspectives and prejudices.
Sorting through those bottles I can clearly identify the early forays in whisky. The few left-over bottles mostly being the ones that after an initial interest quickly failed to excite me. I have kept them nonetheless, as serviceable introductory drams for novice whisky guests.
I see the early craft presented bottles, some of which have lost part of their charme, while others have become familiar permashelf items.
I can identify my “only cask strength will do” phase, luckily a brief one if only for the sake of my liver, just as I can as easily recognise the most recent infatuation with various independent bottlers, something which I suspect will continue for a long time.
But it also confronts me with my buying preference.
Some are very much driven by taste: the sheer number of bottles from the three Campbeltown distilleries, Glasgow, Ardnamurchan and Benromach betray my preferences. But it also hints at something else, especially once I look at the rest of the bottles on my shelves. I have a clear preference for the independent distillers over the established industry giants.
This got me thinking. Maybe it was time to reconsider my attitude towards the big multinationals in whisky. I have to admit that challenging my own prejudice is one of the things that gives me a sense of freedom. Freedom to change my mind but also the freedom to recognise when my conviction stands, shedding any layers of self-doubt that might have accumulated.
As chance would have it, while I was wrangling with my thoughts, a conversation on our Dramface writers chat made me stumble across an opinion piece in support of independent distillers in Whisky Magazine. Perfect, I thought, something that will help me support my individual endorsement of independent distillers. Boy was I in for a surprise.
Rather than finding myself agreeing with the article, the more I thought about it, the more I was irritated by how it missed the point of view of the consumer.
Much of the article focuses on the financial risks independent distilleries take, especially in the current economic and spirit industry climate, and why we, the paying public - and why, as the title of the article states, “we owe (them) our support”. I have to admit that I have some sympathy for that point of view.
I am sure we all fully agree that investing in whisky distillation is a challenging and risky proposition. It takes a huge upfront investment to get things moving and the benefits are really reaped years later - if everything goes according to plan. I am not saying anything new to most of you. And the current market dynamics are certainly challenging as is the fact that in today’s late-stage capitalistic scenario (or hoarder capitalism, as one of my fellow writers beautifully put it) favours the protection of larger established companies, in whisky as in many other business areas.
Yet, should that be enough to warrant my (our) loyalty?
Taking that risk is what being an entrepreneur is about. I have no doubt that it is a tough environment they are facing, but unless I was personally vested in their business (which would disqualify me from writing reviews for Dramface, by the way), it certainly is not what, in isolation, warrants my support.
It would be like asking distilleries to support us by offering us a bit of a discount when times get tougher and budgets tighter. After all, we have been loyal customers to reward them for taking that financial risk, right? Now that’s something I would like to see, but I am not holding my breath.
And while, I love romanticising my passion in whisky, dressing it with my own transposed values, ultimately what I, as I suspect many of us, decide to support is based on something extremely basic: give me what I want as a customer. Produce quality, craft-presented spirits and sell them at a fair price. Transparency is a much-appreciated bonus, but not a dealbreaker if the liquid is handled with care (no caramel crap or chill filtration) and crafted with passion and sensitivity. That is the key commitment I want to reward.
Which is what made the argument in the article so misplaced. I imagine you understand where I am getting to.
I am the first to admit that the share of independent distilleries dedicated to producing quality, natural spirits is arguably higher percentage wise, than the large multinationals who answer to shareholders and are driven more by profit. And I will admit that if faced with two similarly priced and similarly applauded whiskies, I often tend to support the smaller producer. After all I want to have a whisky scene where many producers can thrive, to foster competition based on quality.
And still, being an independent entrepreneur/distiller does not equate to producing better quality products or being more socially responsible. You can be independent and release poorly presented (luckily rarely in malt whisky), or stupidly overpriced (much more common) whiskies. Being a multinational conglomerate does not necessarily translate to the opposite. Take what Dewar’s (i.e. Bacardi) release under the core ranges of Craigellachie, Aultmore and Royal Brackla, as a nice example.
All this takes me back to where I started. I have been focusing most of my buying on independent distilleries. In great part because some of them make some bloody delicious whisky. But a certain romanticism about the Little Guy vs The Goliaths of the industry has played a role.
Similarly, I have been avoiding much of the output of the big multinationals. In part, without doubt, because they fail to deliver on the presentation and pricing of their whiskies. But also due to preconception against this entire category. And maybe I have been proverbially cutting off my own nose to spite my own face by avoiding some of their products. There are some incredible distilleries in the portfolio of those giants.
It might be time to change that… Or at least to take a little step to challenge my own prejudices.
And since we all like a challenge around here, I decided to start with the one industry giant which has, to date, deserved the least of my loyalty.
Review
Glen Garioch 15yo, Sherry Cask matured, official bottling, non-chill filtered, 2021 release, 53.7% ABV
€99.95 paid, (£87) reasonable availability
I suspect many would have guessed that my frustration would be aimed at Diageo. After all, ranting about them is like wanting to “stick it to the man”. Yet, since you now know the focus of this review, you know that when I am talking about my most disliked industry conglomerate, I am speaking of Beam Suntory. Or better, Suntory Global Spirits - since 2024, specifically what they do in the world of Scottish single malt.
There are other giants in the spirit business which arguably could compete with Suntory for this enviable title, but few manage to so blindingly miss the mark for me. Their sins, in my eyes, are many. Maybe picking them to challenge my prejudices is a tall order. On the other hand, if Suntory can convince me there is something to be looking for in their lineup, then anything is possible.
I just need to look at their distilleries and their standard output to get my blood boiling a bit.
Auchentoshan is… As my Nonna taught me, when you have nothing nice to say about Auchentoshan, it’s best not to say anything about Auchentoshan at all. But I can’t help noticing they have decided to spend money on some rather insipid, can’t-believe-it’s-not-butter (thanks Earie for that cracker) rebranding instead of even considering improving your core range. Well done Auchentoshan, sorry, Auchen Toshan, judging by your new labels.
Ardmore, a fun and vibrant spirit when independently bottled, is muted in the official releases I’ve tried. There might be better ones, but considering the options - and since we are on the topic of loyalty - I’d rather give my money to some of my favourite independent bottlers when I feel exploring this distillery.
Bowmore is a pale imitation of what it could be - and once was - if we look at its official releases: beaten to an inch of its life after dilution, chill-filtration and heavy caramel colouring. To paraphrase a certain Scottish bespectacled and goateed gentleman; arguably the most abused spirit in Scotland.
At least there is Laphroaig, right? It is a bit hit and miss for me. While I enjoy the 10 Cask Strength and some of the Cairdeas releases I’ve managed to try, other core bottlings are disappointing.
The Lore, while pleasant, is simply not worth the price tag. But what really takes the biscuit is the standard 10 year old which - at 40% here in Italy and most of Europe - is a bit of a travesty. It is diluted, flat and a whisky that, once opened, somehow manages to lose whatever character left in an incredibly short lapse of time. Considering it is the whisky that made me fall in love with peat in the early 1990s, there is certainly a hefty dose of personal grudge. I was unsure if maybe it was a case of rose-tinted glasses, but tasting a late 90s release shattered any doubt: it is not what it used to be.
Which leaves Glen Garioch. Or simply Geery, to its fans. I have to admit that this distillery took a while to hit my radar. My fault: I hadn’t been paying attention to the grapevine of positive reviews - too distracted chasing more zeitgeisty bottles. Last year’s OSWAs nomination for the 12 year old convinced me to take the first step. Then I started reading the past Dramface reviews, learning about the return to floor malting and direct-fired stills and I wanted more. So the 12 was quickly followed by this 15 year old just a few months later.
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
A spicy, nutty and warming Sherry blanket
Nose
There’s no chance you could mistake this for anything but a Sherried Single Malt. And, even at a passing glance, it smells like proper sherry.
The dried fruit notes hit first: caramel covered roasted nuts and dried figs, specifically taking me to the oven roasted ones which are a staple on Southern Italian Christmas tables, with their slight caramelised smell. Then a wave of spices: cloves, ginger, mace. A savoury note, like the thinnest Marmite spread on a slice of bread. Then a touch of red fruit, maybe dried cherries. There is even a slight touch of sulphur, with a hint of old school elastic bands.
With water the aromas change marginally. Most of the Sherry notes remain pretty consistent, only the red fruit notes are now brighter and more defined: prunes and dried sour cherries. There is also more of an oaky edge popping its head just above perception level. With time, and water, there is a more discernible spent matchstick note. You can probably guess I prefer this undiluted.
Palate
The mouthfeel is lovely, nice and oily and the taste is rich and intense. The dried fruits take a bit of a back seat here. As does the sweetness; first and foremost I taste spice, white pepper, clove and cinnamon. Then a mild but clear oak note. Toasted nuts (hazelnut and almond maybe) with a sprinkling of salt. Dark muscovado sugar. Only at this point do I get the dried fruit (raisins and figs) and some citrus peel, orange and citron. The finish is medium to long, rich with toasted notes: nuts and coffee, toast oak. Then that dark muscovado sugar once again, clove and nutmeg spice.
With water it remains quite rich but it loses a bit of definition. The taste becomes spicier; there is some noticeable black coffee and the spirits malty notes peek through the Sherry influence.
The Dregs
OK, I get the Geery love. I was slightly afraid this would be an over-the-top sherry bomb, something I enjoy on occasion but is very much a mood whisky. Instead, this is a lovely Sherry hug. It strikes a warming balance with the darker toasted and roasted nutty notes, brightened by fruit and contrasted by the spice. The perfect antidote to the weather turning cold and humidity starting to creep in the air. (sorry Northern Europe, it’s only starting here in Italy).
The fact that this still uses E150 colouring, perhaps, even with the positive production steps in the right direction, is a missed opportunity. Even removing my own aversion to caramel colouring, I struggle to understand its use in bottles like this one. I can just about let slide the justification of colour consistency for bottles produced in huge quantities for the supermarket shelves, but when it comes to a bottle clearly targeted at the aficionados’ segment, as a limited release and high ABV as this one, I can only shake my head.
Still, it is a gripe that passes by the wayside while I take another sip and enjoy this 15 year old. Have I changed my mind about Suntory? I’ll admit they can release some decent stuff…but I'll wait for them to change course at Bowmore before I’ll take them off the bottom of my loyalty list.
Now, back to those shelves, and I won’t need an opinion from a magazine to help me decide what should be placed at the front.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. HC
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