Batch 1 | 48.5% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Ticks so many boxes to become a staple
Blending A Style Of Enjoyment
Single casks come and go, that’s the reality of our existence unless you’re fortunate to be able to bag a case or an extra bottle. Such opportunities have been obliterated by our current whisky climate. Much like the environment outside, things are becoming hotter, seasons are changing and the world isn’t as spinning as conveniently as it once did.
In such a turbulent environment thank goodness for the staples. The blends and cheap and cheerful whiskies that are plentifully available. These for the majority out there, are their daily staple; their bread and butter, or even the occasional treat as times become tougher. My definition of a staple is something that you’ll almost always have in stock at home and is affordable. After all, sometimes you don’t want to embark on a voyage of discovery, have your nose pushed to the outer limits or your palate dragged across some new cutting-edge distilling technique. You just want a whisky for the moment and most of our moments are mundane and isolated.
I do most of my whisky exploring alone and I’m sure there was an old saying about that being a bad sign of something else. When in reality, in today’s modern age it’s actually the mainstay of whisky drinking. The community pubs and gathering spots are few and far between. In my immediate vicinity, the nearest pub would be a decent sized walk downhill to Hillend, only to potentially receive looks from the village locals as an outsider, yet it’s exactly the community setting and foundation we seek at times from such a destination. Heading into town, the modern offspring of a watering hole merged with a convenient restaurant attached are more popular. I don’t classify these as viable options for seeking a dram and kicking back; just the realm of an overly fizzy beer and the background accompaniment of Ed Sheeran. Yes, exactly.
“When (Neil M.) Gunn was writing whisky (it) was a drink taken with soda. It was blended, and anyone with such bizarre taste as to want to drink a single malt would have needed to look long and hard for one. Gunn wrote gloomily that - The great pity is that it [single whisky] should have been deflected to the business of flavouring patent spirit instead of to a natural growth within itself.”
Our current generation of whisky drinkers are more home based and fuelled by technology. Enjoying a dram in the comfort of your own home isn’t the sin it once was and when you can reach out to other likeminded enthusiasts across the road with a mere swipe or button press; its easy to see why it’s increasingly popular. Technology may open the world of bottles to a wider market but on the flip side it also increases your chances of difficulty in purchase a specific release. This is something that has been an issue for many independent bottlers including the Thompson Bros. who have tackled the problem as creatively as their label designs.
With bottlings appearing as rapidly as government mistruths and vanishing almost as quickly, there was pressing requirement for an entry level staple to the Thompson Bros. world. Something that would always be in stock through the website or supportive independent bottlers. A blended malt batch format was deemed the most suitable option and something the team could continue to evolve and create. Thereby ensuring a consistency of availability and indulging their geeky roots and becoming blenders.
Press play…
This is a logical step forward from cask picking and deploying finishes. The art of blending is one of the dark arts of whisky; shrouded in secrecy by those in white lab coats and recipes never to be revealed. In reality, we all do a little home blending and the only way to is to jump in and experiment. That’s maybe putting things simply; in essence, it is a case of using your senses, judgement and seeing the outcome. There’s also fun to be had and bringing new life to casks that don’t warrant a finish or even deserve the status of a single cask release. That’s something I’d like to see more of in whisky as we’re inundated in general with single cask releases much of a sameness. Some distilleries are the backbones of blends and excel in this regard, so why not celebrate them more by releasing more blends or blended malts?
Cadenhead’s in recent times pursued a vatting program for specific blends that actually named the distilleries. You could follow the batches and impact of a solera programme without a massive financial outlay. It was fun, educational and most importantly, a good pour. Perhaps that’s where the real sweet spot of blended malts resides? With the geeks, with those that may turn their noses up at the thought of grain whisky, or a blend overly dominated by such? I know if I’m in the company of whisky enthusiasts, I’ll often pick a good drinker, something that offers enough substance without detracting from the conversation. Not a whisky with a huge age statement, ridiculous wood influence, fanciful storyline or a big ABV. No, something that can be poured and poured again without hampering the conversation whether online or in person.
I’ve deliberately not gone into the detail of how this blend was created, instead you can visit the specific page on the Thompson Bros. site for more of the ‘gen on how they did it.
This was one of several bottles I collected on a visit to the Dornoch area to see family. The seal on this one didn’t last the evening as it was popped and made for a refreshing dram outdoor in the glorious Highland countryside. There was a certain greenness initially, the quality was there, but I did feel that time was a factor. So, after a few days of enjoyment, I put the bottle to rest and returned to it a month later for this review.
Review
Blended malt at least 8 years of age, Batch 1, outturn 800 bottles, 48.5% ABV
£35 via Thompson Bros. or check your local independent shop
Nose
Soft apples, freshly squeezed lime juice, almonds and vanilla cream. Furniture polish, a touch of smoke. Green peppercorns, some lemon zest coming through now and a touch of waxiness from the polish. Sunflower oil, orange, some bacon fat, lightly salted and grapefruit skin. Shortbread, wheat, pomegranate, pine needles, honey and heather.
Palate
Oozing texture full of freshness and vibrancy. Lemon peel, more shortbread, melon and a lingering touch of smoke. Buttery. Green apples, vanilla pod and coconut. More flashes of waxiness, sultanas, mandarin and grapefruit.
The Dregs
There’s a cult around neck pours and reviewing. We’re all too eager to jump in nowadays and offer that first opinion, and in doing so, hoover up any online traffic. I don’t buy into the neck pour theory fully, after all, you could move beyond the neck during a single sitting quite easily – does that make it ready to review? No, of course not. If anything, ditch the neck pour theory and just adopt a methodical approach.
Some malts don’t show their full talent within a neck pour, the same week or even later that month. The Springbank Local Barley series is a good example of something shape shifting continuously – even half way down – that can still surprise with new dimensions. Other malts fall into this category as well and blended malts are included. This doesn’t apply to everything, especially true in the era of young whiskies with hardened finishes; you know what you’re getting within a couple of drams. There’s no layering and patient approach evident.
I’m happy that we’ve got an age statement on this Thompson Bros. bottling and the motivation to create a blend for everyone to enjoy. A tall order, but the team have pulled it off. For just £35, this is refreshing and offers a surprising degree of complexity and not just on the palate.
The premise here isn’t ridiculous or extreme. Just create a blend that is for drinking and fairly priced. It doesn’t feel like a bit of a piss-take that some felt Apogee represented. I know which one will be a staple going forward in my household.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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