Nc’Nean Huntress Duo
Editions 4 & 5 “Lemon Meadow” & “Malted Teacake” | 48.5% ABV
Old Body, New Whiskies
I am progressing towards my fifty-ninth year, and my body is reminding me rather consistently these days that fifty-nine is quite a distance from twenty-one, thirty, or even forty.
My ankles and elbows creak and pop in all manner of tones, my right middle finger is now oddly often locked in a ninety-degree angle that will only pop out of stasis with effort, and don’t get me going about the present ailments and problems with my knees, feet, and toes due to fractures, strained ligaments, any number of “bone bruises” due to my role as a baseball catcher over many years. On certain days I believe my name to be Creaky McCracklepain.
And then, there is my genetically problematic lower back.
At the beginning of July, that genetically problematic lower back made its return to my central focus – and all because (1) I am stubborn, and (2) abdominal crunches are of the Devil’s contrivance.
I had been on a much healthier path since I retired from divorce litigation at the end of January. I had re-discovered time to devote to exercise. I was trimming down and becoming a bit more limber when, in June, I recognized a large abdominal crunch exercise machine at my gym. As I had fond, but very faint, memories of having a six pack of abs while in college – admittedly, the six pack was flat, and it was also forty years ago – I decided to introduce ab crunches into my routine. And so, not unlike Eve with a shiny apple, I was similarly lured to start using the ab machine.
My back, at first, gave me a dull ache. I ignored it. I had largely dismissed as unlikely a return to the time when my back “tweaked” twenty-two years ago that led to three days in the hospital - the most pain I had ever encountered - and the resulting months of physical therapy that ensued to get me back to a new-normal. My failure to appreciate history (it tends to repeat itself, you know), led to my current situation.
With each successive week through June I used the ab machine. Consequently – though I did my best to shrug off any connection – my back ache became a bit more pronounced. Finally, as the calendar turned from June, I continued to ignore those nudges. The aches were becoming more pronounced as if my back was trying to explain to me that, yes, those nudges would soon escalate. And, as I continued to ignore my back, it finally gave out with a bolt of you-will-not-ignore-me blistering pain.
Thankfully, it did not completely debilitate me as it had twenty-two years ago, but the shooting pain that dropped me to a knee was a clear shot across my bow. I wasn’t debilitated such that I couldn’t walk, but it wasn’t far off.
Before moving on, let me say: crunches are the Devil’s work. I recognize that now.
As I re-dedicated myself to the daily stretches and exercises I learned in physical therapy all those years ago, as I re-ordered myself a back brace, and as I spent a significant time each day on the floor lying on my front with my torso and head propped up by my arms or a stack of pillows, I began to notice something rather humorous.
I, as with many of you, have a Spotify account. I thoroughly enjoy having my playlist (ranging from Megadeth to Mozart) playing in the background. It is customary for me to play my primary song playlist of approximately thre–hundred songs on “shuffle mode”. Since the start of my rehab for my back, the music regularly shuffles to one specific song within the first ten minutes of me starting my physical therapy routine. Clearly, God has a sense of humor, as He must have more than a few chuckles watching me make efforts with my body-reclamation project. The song that comes is “As Good As I Once Was.”
For those of you who are unfamiliar with Toby Keith (country musician from the States), this song is hilarious. In it, Toby recounts a few scenarios in which he reflects that he has aged and, perhaps, doesn’t have all the same strength and stamina as he once did . . . but from time to time he can still muster his strength and moxie to perform like old times. The chorus has echoed in my head, and I chuckle as the song comes up when I do my stretches and exercises:
“I ain’t as good as I once was,
but I’m as good once
As I ever was.”
As Toby Keith’s persistent repetition was occurring, I was planning to see my buddy, Jeff. As many of you may remember, Jeff had suffered a loss of his wife a few years ago, causing his heart to bruise to blue. He had remained, proverbially, curled up and bruised. And, quite frankly, after the ordeal he had experienced with his wife, and having helplessly witnessed her lengthy suffering, no one could blame him.
As of the beginning of this year, however, he had begun to open his eyes once again. He began to observe all that was around him. He gathered the courage to step out into the light once again.
Slow steps, for sure, at first. But, over the past few months, one might say his emotional gait has progressed from slow steps to a meaningful canter.
On the spur of the moment, Jeff let me know that he had decided to take a trip. It was largely last minute, but knew the good it would do him to get away. He would travel with a close friend who was traveling to South Carolina to accompany her son for his travel baseball tournament. Hearing that Jeff was going to travel made my heart happy. After all that Jeff had been through over the past few years, this was amazing to hear. He would be in South Carolina come late July. Without hesitation, I told him I’d drive down and meet up with him.
He knew of my back issues and my debilitating “tweak”. He had also experienced similar back issues, and he insisted there was no need to get into a car and drive several hours to meet. Did I mention I am a stubborn mule?
The physical therapy exercises and stretches learned twenty-two years ago were repeated daily – oftentimes twice per day. The first week of July came and went. The second week of July came and went. On the 16th, this stubborn mule tightly strapped on his back brace, loaded his suitcase into the car, and started the trek to Myrtle Beach.
Normally, I can make the trip from my home to Myrtle Beach in roughly three hours. Knowing my condition, I budgeted a bit more time, and ultimately made it down in almost five hours as I took a number of breaks from driving to get out of the car, walk around, and stretch my back. After I checked into my hotel, I called Jeff to find out where we’d meet up.
He was surprised, had some words for my stubbornness, but was tickled pink that I had made the trip. For the next two days, we drove around seeing the sights, we stopped to eat and drink and chew the fat, went to a distillery, smoked cigars, and on and on. All the while, I wore my back brace and religiously did my exercises and stretches each morning.
On the third day, we met for breakfast. I couldn’t stay longer as I needed to get back home. I needed to hit the road early knowing I would be taking stops as I did coming down. We finished our breakfast, walked toward my car, and then we stopped to give each other big hugs. It had been two years since I saw Jeff and our buddy, Chris, in Key West. At that time, we convened as Chris and I were worried about Jeff and needed to hold on to him to let him know we were there for him and for him to lean on us. We allowed Jeff the space, and support, for a catharsis. Now, Jeff, while still carrying the scars, was up and about and re-recognizing the wonders of life that were all around that were, for years prior, hidden by the narrow focus of pain and suffering. His encompassing vision has returned, and it is beyond wonderful to see.
We must have said our goodbyes two or three times before we went our separate ways. But before I went off to my car, he shook his head, looked at my back brace (I call it my “injury cummerbund”), and told me how much he appreciated me coming down to spend time with him. I smiled and told him to remember two things. First, he is my brother, and it was non-negotiable whether I would come or not. Second, I smiled and simply said:
“I ain’t as good as I once was,
but I’m as good once
As I ever was.”
He understood the reference.
These events don’t have a lick to do with whisky but, as he laughed, I felt compelled to relay them to remind everyone to make sure you prioritize and keep precious the three Fs: Faith, Family, and Friends.
Keep them dear, appreciate them, and make sure you never take them for granted. Embrace where you are in life, even with the creaks, pains, warts and wrinkles. Live. Laugh. Enjoy what you can and spread the love.
Love to you, Jeff.
Review 1/6 - Ogilvie
Nc’Nean Huntress Series Edition 5, “Malted teacake”, NAS, matured in 50% STR Red Wine Casks, 48% Ex-bourbon Casks, 2% Oloroso Sherry casks. 48.5% ABV
US$120 retail price, still available
Immediately before I made my trek to Myrtle Beach, I heard from our dear Nick. Evidently, he has struck up a relationship with Nc’Nean Distillery volunteering to do some tastings. Frankly, I have no idea how his association with Nc’Nean came about, but (as I suspect) he charmed his way to doing tastings because it is one of his favorite hobbies.
That said, as I was doing my morning stretches and exercises on the living room floor, I received his message relaying that his contacts at Nc’Nean have provided him with two new releases. They did so as the folks at Nc’Nean were curious as to what the general reception in America would be to these new expressions.
Well… Nick knows of a few rag-tag whisky misfits who might be able to provide some feedback. As it turned out, Nick reached out to me, Eallair, and Archie to see if we’d be willing to nose and taste so as to give our two cents as to each of these two new limited-edition expressions. And, of course, we three all accepted the request because (1) we are stellar friends, (2) we get free whisky, and (3) re-read #1 and #2…
Aside from a sip from a dram a few years back while I was in Edinburgh (of which I don’t have a recollection about the expression nor the liquid), I have not had any experience with Nc’Nean. A week or so later, I received two healthy samples simply labeled “Nc’Nean Huntress Malted Teacake 48.5% ABV” and “Nc’Nean Huntress Lemon Meadow 48.5% ABV” from Nick.
I had not heard of these expressions. I have no idea about their make-up, age statements, cask choice, etc. All I know about these whiskies is on the labels. And, as it is my habit to not research whiskies that I am to review prior to my nosing and tasting, as I write this I am still very much in the dark.
Time to see how these whiskies stack up to my taste buds. I am also keen to see what comments Eallair and Archie have, and if my less-than-professional tasting skills yield similar results to theirs.
Score: 7/10
Average. In a good way.
TL;DR
Good, light, floral, but not my lane
Nose
Apricot tart. Yeasty wafts in the background akin to rising bread dough. Raisin scone with cream. The smell one gets on a hot summer day after a brief rain hits slate on an outdoor patio. Bit of additional petrichor, but difficult to identify and describe it. This is both floral and citrusy. A touch of sweet blended with bitter, like marmalade. A touch mineralic. The nosing also triggers a memory of stale yellow gummy bears.
Palate
Placing floral arrangements next to dried fruits – this is what comes to my mind. Delicate. Toffee. Creamy. That floral and citrusy element from the nose is here. It is strange to me to have such a floral and light whisky with a creamy mouthfeel. Tea biscuits are here. In the background I get a faint taste of coffee creme candies. There is a tart-sweetness here that also reminds me of home-made and unsweetened apple sauce. At the finish there is a hint of white chocolate and grapefruit pith.
The Dregs
This whisky was difficult for me to analyze. Admittedly, light and floral whiskies are not my lane as I prefer hefty and bold flavors with some funk. Here, the liquid in my glass has a good creamy mouthfeel, but the taste is light and floral. There is a light vegetal/petrichor aroma and flavor here that is not off-putting, and aligns with the delicate and floral aspects. I really like that waft of yeast/bread baking aroma that I discern every now and again. That said, I have to admit I feel as if I am missing the mark with this whisky. It is a good whisky, but for me, it is not something that I would reach for. Again, it is good, but as said, not my lane.
Score: 5/10 OS
Review 2/6 - Ogilvie
Nc’Nean Huntress Series Edition 4, “Lemon Meadow”, NAS, matured in 56% STR Red Wine Casks, 42% Ex-bourbon Casks, 2% Oloroso Sherry casks, 48.5% ABV
US$120 retail price, still available
Score: 5/10
Average. In a good way.
TL;DR
Another for those who chase light and floral
Nose
Not much different than the Malted Teacake in that this is a light, floral-like nose. Freshly baked scones. Peach jam. White grapes. Granny Smith apple skins. Coconut sugar. There is a grassiness here, reminding me of sencha tea leaves.
Palate
Tart apples. Marmalade, balancing sweet with tart. Those tea biscuit notes from the Malted Teacake are here. Lemon curd. Not quite ripe white plums. Starfruit – again, the combination of sweet and tart. Not a heavy, clingy mouthfeel but not weak or watery, either. Casaba melon. A bit fizzy mid-palate, which is a nice sensation. As with the Malted Teacake, I get a signature of floral and vegetal/petrichor – maybe this is the underlying spirit signature of Nc’Nean? Again, I have no background or history with Nc’Nean to compare.
The Palate
Maybe I am succumbing to expectations. All I know about these whiskies are that they are from Nc’Nean, they are both 48.5% ABV, and both are limited edition expressions. If they are limited edition expressions, I would like to think they have some special aspects that I should be able to pull out and analyze.
However, I feel as I did with one of the Decadent Drinks whiskies that I reviewed some time ago. I thought I was missing something from one of those expressions from what I thought was a special whisky.
This whisky, as with the Malted Teacake, is admittedly not my preferred lane. The floral and light aspects of the whisky are good, no doubt. But the flavor profile – and flavors that, to me, are overly subtle – leads me to the score I have assigned it.
I truly wish I had more to say about this expression (and also about the Malted Teacake), but I am a bit flummoxed and underwhelmed by these whiskies. Not to beat a dead horse, but I imagine that someone who appreciates and looks for light and floral whiskies would have much more to say and much more appreciation for these drams. However, such is my palate…and all I can do is to call them as I nose and taste them.
Score: 5/10 OS
Review 3/6 - Archie
Nc’Nean Huntress Series Edition 5, “Malted teacake”, NAS, matured in 50% STR Red Wine Casks, 48% Ex-bourbon Casks, 2% Oloroso Sherry casks. 48.5% ABV
US$120 retail price, still available
As a denizen of Sampletown, I of course fist-pumped in excitement when Nick proposed this collab and the idea to test-run Nc’Nean’s latest “Huntress” releases.
Further, aside from the information that was on the small bottle label I decided to head into both relatively blind. I was only armed with the background information Nick had given us about these releases and the distillery’s experiment with different yeasts during fermentation, I didn’t have any other knowledge of casks used or age statements until I finished the samples. I didn’t attempt to guess, but I enjoyed nosing and tasting these without the bias of knowing the cask profile.
I’ve tried Nc’Nean at a tasting before, but don’t have any bottles. They’re from the newer wave of distilleries and with an ethos focused on organic whisky and sustainable practices they should definitely be on the ol’ Archie radar. I remember liking what I had from the tasting, they had a juicy freshness about them and I solidly placed them in the “good” category.
As I’m always enthusiastic about expanding my whisky horizons through sample exchanges and collaborations, much appreciation goes to Nick for arranging this. The American Colonials have been a great group to share whisky with and I’m grateful for the experience of finding fellow eager adventurers as partners.
On to the whisky.
According to their website, the “Malted Teacake” edition was distilled using a yeast strain typically used for the brewing of Belgian-style ales and the” Lemon Meadow” was distilled using a yeast derived from French Sparkling wine.
Score: 5/10
Average. In a good way.
TL;DR
Fun and interesting, but a bit average
Nose
Initially a little closed, but with time opens up with grassy and earthy notes and overripe red apples and a slight vegetal mustiness. Yellow birthday cupcakes. Wax paper. Hints of spices, wet pebbles, and Nilla Wafers. Banana bread with walnuts. Coconut macarons. With time there’s some tropical fruits, blondies, lemon cupcakes with vanilla frosting, water brings spicier notes but more in a cinnamon spice way, brown sugar, more lemony fruits peeking through, and dishwasher detergent. Quite a bit of interesting stuff here.
Palate
Maltier and sweeter than the nose like shortcake. But also brown sandwich bread. Pastries, coffee cake, some youthfulness apparent on the palate, but overall good texture and mouthfeel. Water brings cookie crumble and gingerbread, adds some brightness and juiciness, overall prefer without water. There’s something flour-ey that leads to a short finish and the dram falls a little flat right at the end.
The Palate
Looking up the cask information afterward and reading about the yeast used during the fermentation of this whisky was fascinating, but to me the experiment led to a perfectly acceptable and average presentation at 48.5% ABV. Preferred without water.
The price took me back a little as well. $120 for a bottle feels steep. I would expect an NAS whisky with this profile to be much more in the $60-80 price range. I’m sure the STR casks and experimental runs, as well as this being a limited edition, must add some upward pressure to price.
I would have a dram of this if offered, especially as the nose has some good layers to it, but overall it’s pleasant but nothing stands out and I’m not sure I would purchase a bottle at that price. A solid whisky and I’m happy to have tried it.
Score: 5/10 AD
Review 4/6 - Archie
Nc’Nean Huntress Series Edition 4, “Lemon Meadow”, NAS, matured in 56% STR Red Wine Casks, 42% Ex-bourbon Casks, 2% Oloroso Sherry casks, 48.5% ABV
US$120 retail price, still available
Score: 6/10
Good stuff.
TL;DR
Bright and citrusy, a solid sipper
Nose
Initially it feels very fresh, zesty, bright, and juicy. Lemon-lime fizziness. Sugary sweetness in the back of the nose and throat. Satsuma oranges and orange gum drops. Sunflowers. Fresh greens and a produce stand like an open-air farmers market. More fruit notes develop with time like pineapple and cantaloupe. Table grapes. Maltiness like dough balls rolled in flour. Lemon lollipop. Water brings brighter sweetness and more sweet lemon, Arnold Palmer, Nestea, yellow cake batter, salted caramel toffee, and some creamy butteriness. Nice layered complexity on the nose.
Palate
More juicy, fizzy, and inviting. Rounded and sweet. Heaps of tropical fruits, texture is a little thin, but overall very solid and sippable. Cake batter and soft dinner rolls. Susan Lemon Cookie sweetness on the finish and vanilla frosting. A soft tartness like kiwi or under-ripe peaches. Water doesn’t add too much on the palate but there’s a touch of lemon-lime fizziness like flat Sprite.
The Dregs
In my opinion the better of the two. I was surprised to see that the cask profile on this was very similar to the Malted Teacake, as I felt this one was brighter and fruitier, which in my opinion would be more bourbon cask influence, not less, but that could derive from the wine yeast that was used. I’m a mere whisky mortal and humble punter and these observations and questions go above my scientific understanding of distilling and maturing.
Both of these whiskies had an interesting nose, but this one felt more complete on the palate. Definitely a solid sipper and like the Malted Teacake I’m happy to have tried it. I still blanche a bit at the price on this one as well, $120 still feels steep for a bottle.
Thanks again to Nick for facilitating and all our American colonials for coming together for another fun collab. On to the next!
Score: 6/10 AD
Review 5/6 - Eallair
Nc’Nean Huntress Series Edition 5, “Malted teacake”, NAS, matured in 50% STR Red Wine Casks, 48% Ex-bourbon Casks, 2% Oloroso Sherry casks. 48.5% ABV
US$120 retail price, still available
Let me start off by saying that on the surface, this whisky pulls at all my amber coloured heart strings. Luminescant pale gold colour, a blend of STR red wine, ex-bourbon, and Oloroso (just a hint) for cask maturations, and most of all - a scotch whisky that’s using experimental yeast fermentations. This has “SIGN ME UP” written all over it. I’d camp out in the parking lot for an expression like this. If I lived in Scotland.
Coming from the states and as someone who is throwing themselves at small brand, craft presented, and creatively made whiskies, Nc’Nean’s Huntress mimics the same kind of profile I keep a keen eye out for: alternative yeasts, quality ingredients, thoughtful maturation, and authentic presentation.
The first time I experienced the end result of a whisky made with alternative yeasts was with Balcones’ Mirador Eclipse. That was a whisky moment I’ll never forget - the kind where a whisky surprises you and insists on your full attention.
Each of the two whiskies, the Mirador and this rendition of Nc’Nean’s Huntress, dial up the “Art” and “Science” behind what they are making. But while they share common themes - their end results could not have been more different.
Score: 4/10
Some promise.
TL;DR
This one should’ve gone to 11
Nose
Muted - The first dram I had of this, I thought, “wait… something’s missing.” I sat with it and gave it time to open up - waiting for that experience to unfold. I caught several hints of aromatic interest, but each time I felt like this whisky was whispering its story. It reminds me of a Classic Laddie or Islay Barley - a good, clean, barley forward, distillate forward whisky. Ultimately I did like the nose on this whisky, but I kept coming back to how quiet this whisky was.
The second dram revealed more interesting buttery notes, more bright barley sweetness… but those moments faded fast.
Palate
The palate followed through on the nose’s hints. Reserved hints of barley again, like a French butter cookie, but toned WAAY down… again whispering its flavours to you.
The second dram revealed flashes of zesty lemon cake, but again, those moments faded fast and led me nowhere next.
The Dregs
There’s a style of hunting here in the states called “still hunting” where the hunter creeps along, quietly, subtly, and slowly - moving incrementally, inch by inch - so that you blend into the environment. The goal is to blend away - to become commonplace enough that all the little woodland creatures go back to their normal ‘day-to-day,’ ignoring the out-of-place human wandering around their space. That is until you find your target of course.
If there is an analogy for this whisky’s Huntress namesake - it’s this. This whisky leaves you hunting for its flavour. Just when you think it’s there, it’s gone. I kept hoping it would open up and lead into something more engaging and interesting, but that moment never happened. This whisky ultimately proved too illusive for me. There’s a lot of promise in it; the ingredients, the fermentation, the maturation - all the fun new elements are there, but it just never amounted to very much. There’s nothing to dislike about this whisky, there were no off flavours, no unpleasant aromas, but there’s not enough for me to fall in love with.
A 4 out of 10 feels terribly low, but just like the DF scorecard says, “This whisky has some redeeming qualities but annoyingly hasn’t come together as we’d hoped,
just slipping down the pecking order. Work required.”
If I could, I’d encourage the folks at Nc’Nean to go back and try again - same ingredients, different combinations, and see what magic they can make happen. I’d be game for another trial for sure.
Review 6/6 - Eallair
Nc’Nean Huntress Series Edition 4, “Lemon Meadow”, NAS, matured in 56% STR Red Wine Casks, 42% Ex-bourbon Casks, 2% Oloroso Sherry casks, 48.5% ABV
US$120 retail price, still available
What does my eye spy, but more STR red wine, more ex-bourbs and more Oloroso.
Score: 5/10
Average. In a good way.
TL;DR
Accurately named
Nose
Mild and malty. Honestly, a pretty beautiful distillate. The kind of sweetness that comes about with flowers. Calling it Lemon Meadow is a bit of naming mastery - the nose is light and fragrant without being perfumy, and all floral sweetness.
Between the two Huntresses, this dram delivers on the promise. There’s a fuller experience here. If you’re looking for a Scotch whisky that rolls back all the noise from cask finishes, sulphurous worm tubs, or peat smoke, then seek out this Lemon Meadow Huntress by Nc’Nean. Its clean, straightforward, elegant barley distillate.
Palate
If the nose is floral sweetness - then the palette delivers on the lemon promise, though lightly. Both of these whiskies are all about subtlety - but the Lemon Meadow brings more to the table in terms of flavor and experience (over the teacake). There’s a twang to this whisky - almost like a light, citrusy, lemon zest.
The Dregs
The Huntresses from Nc’Nean are interesting whiskies. I find myself gravitating towards good, clean, barley forward, distillate forward drams lately - and these two are exactly that. It’s worth being clear that neither of these two are bad… I’d only wish there were more depth to explore. They are both tasty and they are both pleasing, the only thing they are missing is more of their character - especially the Teacake. Nc’Nean, if you’re listening or reading this - please keep pushing and keep playing - but give us more of who you are.
Tried these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. OS
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