Ardbeg 8yo
For Discussion | 50.8% ABV
Score: 6/10
Good stuff.
TL;DR
Mother nature needs more time to work her magic, but solid ground.
Up For A Discussion?
Does anyone wonder what’s being discussed when these Ardbeg editions land with the usual fanfare and marketing approach?
In terms of whether it’s coming or not, that’s not open to debate as it’s a given. Ardbeg has 12 months of the year to fill with shenanigans, which seems to rely mostly on cask trickery and some funky naming. The reality is these discussion releases are an extension of an already time-limited release. The picture disc vinyl of the latest single with a limited run on all formats. In most Ardbeg cases, literally here today, gone today.
I haven’t purchased an Ardbeg for some time now. That’s not a reflection of the quality, as the 10 year old (batch variations permitting), remains a must-have whisky. My lack of motivation comes from all these themed editions, excessive pricing and more age statements than a national portrait gallery. There’s a disconnect and it’s not specific to Ardbeg. There is what we recognise as drinking whisky and the other releases that are for investors, collectors and glitzy Instagram photographs; the stuff that feels alien. To be fair, the price of this release was £57, which isn’t too bad in the Ardbeg realm. There will be shaking of the heads by some of the old guard who consider circa £60 for a single-digit age expression too much; even from Islay. The cost of everything is going up and I’d have expected something nearer £75 given LVMH’s track form.
“lacking any fancy antics that we associate with Ardbeg; beasties, swamp monsters and other fanciful imaginative things. Maybe a return to more solid ground?”
But what if you wanted to have that discussion? Obviously, you’d have to open a bottle which for some out there is a big issue. Fair enough folks. But let’s continue the fairy tale theme (in keeping with some of these releases) and imagine you’ve done just that. There’s no set platform for discussion; even the official page doesn’t allow comments. Instead, embrace social media with a hashtag and become part of the promotional machine. There’s huge value in allowing comments and interaction with readers, drinkers and writers. That’s why we have the feature enabled and gladly encourage comments. I’d suggest Ardbeg do more in this regard as well as bumping up their site to cope with traffic during these launches.
Mind you, I should watch what I’m saying as I’ll be on Islay later this year at Ardbeg for a special celebration. I’m looking forward to seeing the new Ardbeg still house and drinking some Ardbeg among fellow whisky enthusiasts. Of course, I’ll be taking along something from the 1960s to open and share, but not from Islay, as that’d be too obvious.
This 2021 edition is more of a naked or natural offering of Ardbeg, involving ex-sherry casks. Bottled at 50.8% it was lacking any fancy antics that we associate with Ardbeg; beasties, swamp monsters and other fanciful imaginative things. Maybe a return to more solid ground? A recognition that what makes Ardbeg a great whisky is a natural expression?
Oddly enough, the 2022 reveal dropped into my inbox this week. The one important aspect that’s always missing – and from most pre-launch emails – is the actual price (this turned out to be £150). I’m not a fan of clicking on a link come launch, spinning the wheel and wasting my time only to walk away when the price is more aligned to investors than drinkers. The 2022 release with its extended fermentation is an intoxicating prospect; even I’m tempted. Even so, price is key and will always be a guiding factor in any purchase decision, because it’s for drinking. The Ardbeg 10 is so strong that you don’t really need to lower yourself to a Wee Beastie or seeking out a new twist on an already tired tale.
Review
Ardbeg 8yo 2021 For Discussion, 50.8% ABV
£60 retail
My thanks to Max for the generous sample and opportunity to check out Dr Bill’s latest creation from the comfort of my own home.
Nose
Immediately coastal and peated, but it's much lighter than I anticipated, less direct and rugged. Almost an aerosol aspect to those initial aromas. Brine, seashells and a twist of lemon. A vanilla sponge nearing its use-by date. New plimsolls scuffing on wooden flooring, green apples and a dusting of flour. There’s also a faint note towards the end that I find off-putting, that I can only summarise as dried and cracking rubber seal.
Palate
More of that peat and coastal aspect coming through and both linger right into the pronounced finish. Sandpaper, chalk, salted caramel and a hint of soap midway. Crunching into a peppercorn with that fiery dark spice taking over, wet cardboard, fired bacon and a whiff of menthol.
The Dregs
Shall we have that discussion right now? This isn’t what I thought it would be on paper. Lighter, more polished and accessible. You’re buying this for the peat and coastal vibe and on such a basis you’ll be satisfied. However, it feels constrained and sanded down. Yes, it is just eight years old, so mother nature hasn’t had much opportunity to work her magic. In doing so, it is limited in places and threadbare; peat is a great camouflage especially when the sherry casks are suspect.
Dallas’ Score: 6/10
A Second Opinion?
We’ll try and give you one as much as possible…
Wally’s Notes
Nose
Sweet lemon curd and pineapple cake greet before passing the baton to creamy custard and biscuits, butter shortbreads and malted milk. Ash makes itself known with light but sharp floral notes and something of an earthy dustiness that challenges a sense of something full and creamy, like castor oil. This is an interesting nose. Good stuff.
Palate
Thick arrival, immediately carrying a hit of chilli and sweet oily citrus. Orange and lemon oils, something drier too.. like a dried mixed peel or a floral burst. This thick and sweet start turns quickly to a tartness, a little acidic too, like hints of a dry white wine. Mineralic notes now; slate or seashells. The finish is short but that sense of a full dose of castor oil persists. This is good Ardbeg. This is a very good Ardbeg.
The Dregs
Is it lazy to say all (core) Ardbegs are pretty good these days? I think the only ‘dodgy’ release is the 5 year old Wee Beastie, but at least it’s honest. While the An Oa is a little on the plain and sickly-sweet side for me, it seems to be loved. The 10yo is a wonderful and available ambassador for the southern Islay distilleries, and a staple for everyone, surely? Cask strength aficionados are kept happy with great bottlings in Corryvreckan and Uigeadail. So it begs the question - why? Well, sometimes there are answers to questions that weren’t asked and I think that’s what we have here. For discussion, apparently, although I’m not part of wherever that discussion is taking place. I understand this to be refill sherry but there’s not much in here to draw you toward a cask of any particular provenance. Nor are you distracted by the spirit because it’s wonderfully balanced at a mere eight years old. This is more than another big hit of young Islay malt, this is a very interesting and very good smoky malt. This would be a great release if made widely available, but there was plenty out there. I paid €57 for this and I’m very glad I did.
Wally’s Score: 7/10 | Very good indeed.
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