Croftengea 8yo Red Cask
Indie Peated Loch Lomond | 57.5% ABV
Score: 8/10
Something special.
TL;DR
Hello Darkness my Old Friend
Grateful Reflection
I was reminded while reading the latest Dramface newsletter (faithful subscriber!) over the weekend that ‘tis the Summertime… and the livin’ is easy.
The original lyrics for that popular refrain are of course from the inimitable Ella Fitzgerald, but the most famous sample many are familiar with is the opening line to the song “Doin’ Time” by Long Beach, CA legends Sublime. Admit it, it’s hard to even say the word “Summertiiime” without going into that baritone, lilting melody that closes their seminal (and tragically final) self-titled album.
Aside from the personal trivia that Casa Dunlop is right next to the Sublime mural and memorial to ill-fated lead singer Bradley Nowell – the house he grew up in is allegedly down the street – I was reminded that the slow (hot) period of Summertime is meant to be reserved for unplugging, connecting with family and friends over backyard parties and barbecues, and enjoying holidays and planned vacations – living easy. Life in a lower gear.
But any deceleration for me that accompanies those weekend beach days, pool parties, or summer travel tends to be coupled with periods of reflection as I also consider the year is halfway completed.
And for me, it’s been a hell of a year. I’ll dig deeper into the Archie confessional in future pieces, but with six months behind us and six months before us here in the year of our lord two-thousand two hundred and twenty-six, I’d like to take a moment of personal privilege to extend some gratitude.
Since my first Dramface tome was published directly after the new year in early January, I have a clean period to measure my time here and the work I’ve submitted. Compared to most, including our other great writers, my whisky journey is relatively new. To be where I am, on that same journey, writing, sharing through this space, and building upon my passion for capturing whisky, is something I’m eternally thankful for. For the editors, other writers, and readers, those who I now consider friends - I’m damn fortunate.
Outside of these pages I work to share whisky through tastings and sample donations, hoping even a modicum of my exuberance for the water of life can be transmitted to others – we’ll call it STE (Sample Transmitted Enthusiasm). I’m appreciative of that opportunity also. I hosted a tasting this past weekend and to be in that moment doing what I love – sharing the amber gold – led to even more felicitous ruminations.
My Summertime reflection is heaped in gratitude. Especially where whisky is concerned.
And within those layers of appreciative thanks, are reflections on the journey itself. Especially the bottles that stand out. Often purchased on the reputation of a bottler, a preferred distillery, or just good vibes; punted with fingers crossed and whispers to the cosmos (unfortunately online retailers still don’t have that “try before you buy” mail feature I’ve been asking for). The finding of those true “whisky gems” is its own cause for thanksgiving.
And the bottle under review today definitely qualifies as a hidden whisky gem. Both the bottler and the spirit (heavily peated Loch Lomond) have received scant coverage in these pages and deserve some ink spilled by a satisfied and grateful punter.
Review
Loch Lomond “Croftengea” 8yo, Bottled by The Red Cask Company, Finished in an Oloroso Sherry Hogshead, 57.5% ABV
US$90 Paid. Sold out online.
OK, now that that’s out of the way. Let’s nerd out, shall we?
“Croftengea” is a heavily peated spirit from that Swiss-army knife of Highland whisky production that is Loch Lomond. It’s one of a few different peated styles they create from their myriads of stills and versatile fermentation types, the others being “Inchfad,” which was discontinued, and “Inchmoan,” which is the peated version of “Inchmurrin” (still following along?). Inchmoan currently has a 12 year old official bottling that’s widely available in the UK. Apparently, they have 11 different styles. Good on them.
Croftengea is primarily a blending component and mainly exists to add complexity to Loch Lomond’s official releases, but it’s beginning to see more independent bottlings and chatter among botherers despite not being a new expression from the distillery (the internet tells me it was briefly released by them in 2006). My understanding is production increased about 10 years ago, which seems to be why many of the single cask expressions from independent bottlers are currently in the 8–10 year range.
As stock matures, the distillery may decide to release it as a stand-alone expression as they did with Inchmurrin and Inchmoan, but that may be further away as there are currently no plans for releases.
Loch Lomond claims that Croftengea is indeed their most heavily peated single malt and is peated around 50ppm. The spirit is distilled using the distillery’s unique straight neck pot stills, which add to its characteristic dirty oiliness.
Croftengea also offers a wonderful contrast to the more famous smoke shows from Islay and highlights not only the experimental side of Loch Lomond – who should be applauded for their “why not do it all?” attitude toward whisky production – but the earthy funkiness that makes Mainland peat so special.
To me, it’s a truly unique Highland whisky and stands out compared to its more famous cousin Ardmore, and other Mainland smokers Ballechin (peated Edradour), Ruadh Maor (peated Glenturret), Ardnamurchan, or even Benromach.
Regarding the bottler, the Red Cask Company, aside from what they have for sale online and a very sparsely populated website, there’s little information to be found. Based in Glasgow, they’ve been releasing since 2020 and only bottle “the finest” first-fill sherry casks, “a marriage between Scotland and Spain.” The color for both this whisky and others displayed shows that those are all very active casks. They don’t have any social media that I can see, and our faithful industry reporter Norrie Newsdesk doesn’t have any information about them either - but they do release regularly.
As they’ve flown well under the radar this will be their first Dramface showcase.
I came across this expression after trying a Croftengea SMWS bottle last year, and I’ve been hunting for others ever since. I was looking for a new bottler to highlight as part of a tasting a few months ago and the release was well-priced and very intriguing.
As I mentioned in my preamble there’s been ample reflection as of late and I thought it fitting at my “six-month mark” (if that’s a thing) to re-engage and ponder over the dark goodness of this bottle.
Between sharing at tastings and dispatching through the Archie Dunlop Sample Service (as well as personal consumption), the liquid levels are quite low and even though I’m unlikely to ever find a backup, its end is nigh - whisky is meant to be enjoyed after all.
Before I get to the notes, a quick apology on aesthetics to our dear readers. I unfortunately had some cork issues and couldn’t find another one to fit so had to decant the bottle, but its dark, opaque color is vividly on display.
Score: 8/10
Something special.
TL;DR
Hello Darkness my Old Friend
Nose
Heavy and savory. Initially, lots of earthy coal smoke. Slightly industrial. Hickory Smoked Barbecue Sauce. Chili in the slow cooker. Charred beef, grill smoke, and gristle. Blacktop. Rubber pellets. Burnt Wood chips and beauty bark. Charcoal briquettes. With time a dark fruitiness comes through like browned apples or plums.
Water opens this up even more and brings fruity sweetness, dark cherries, burnt caramel molasses, gingerbread, wood chips in the Traeger (it’s Summertime after all!), cooking oil, hints of car exhaust, mesquite, and grilled veggies. Just stupendous.
Palate
Sweeter than the nose. Very thick and mouth coating. A lovely tanginess. More barbecue sauce. Brown sugar. Grilled pineapple. All layered with a pleasant, lip-smacking texture that’s mouth coating and moreish despite the heft of this dram. Alcohol is well-integrated, especially for the age. Mango sticky rice. Dark chocolate syrup. Sweet and spicy meatiness like Al Pastor right off the grill. Charcoal again. Very earthy and dirty. There’s pink peppercorns on the finish and waves of sticky-sweet fruity sweetness right at the end.
Water brings chili pepper, ashiness, some pleasant spicy grilled veggies, that slight rubbery note again, and Jackfruit. Wow.
The Dregs
Who says a big, smoky, funky, heavy whisky can’t be enjoyed in the depths of summer?
The first thing that’s noticed right away is the color. It’s darker than even some of the darkest sherry bombs I’ve come across. I couldn’t find any information on how long this was finished in that first-fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead, but it couldn’t have been long - the whisky itself is only 8 years old. As mentioned, The Red Cask Company uses very active casks. Maybe that adds to the mystique here, or having the color of barbecue sauce planting those notes in my brain (I swear it’s there!)
This one was a fan favorite during our tasting and has received acclaim from those who tried it as part of the Archie Dunlop Sample Service. My personal thoughts echo that as well. I love this whisky and I’ll do my best to preserve the precious few drams that are left in my decanted bottle.
I was pleased as I engaged more with this expression that the bold, raw, earthy smokiness that attacked at first (and got me hooked) mellowed into more savoriness and bigger sweet fruits over time, presenting a layered and complex whisky that definitely reached that next level into the “something special” category.
This qualifies as a true “gem” and a punt well-rewarded. I’m grateful to have come across this release and given this bottler a try.
But really, I’m grateful for it all. Thanks for reading and here’s to the next six months!
Score: 8/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. AD
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What’s your own personal top distilleries?
At the point of this article’s publication, Loch Lomond currently sits in position #16 in the Dramface Top 40.
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