Batch SML21-L | 47% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Balcones continues to spin magic in a bottle
American single malt is coming to the table
…and we are all better for it.
I am a Magnificent Bastard, and yes – I do drink with magnificence. I believe many of you reading this are and do, as well. We are members of the Whiskey Tribe’s online following. Daniel and Rex – the humorous and informative duo that are the moving force behind Crowded Barrel Distillery in Austin, Texas — are also the creators of the well known YouTube channels Whiskey Tribe and Whiskey Vault. The Whiskey Tribe was my gateway into the online YouTube whiskey sphere rabbit hole. Hello, whisky intrigue and geekdom!
Spread out over the course of their videos are regular references to Balcones Distillery and this was my introduction to the distillery. It’s on the Texas Whiskey Trail and the frequent reference and reviews piqued my curiosity more with each passing reference.
As Balcones has grown, its distribution has reached further over time and eventually in early 2021, I found my first bottle of Balcones 1 Texas Single Malt here on the eastern coast of the United States. I was drawn to it like a moth to flame, but thankfully I made out much better than the moth. Not only was I not immolated, but I was introduced to a wonderful world of rich flavours I had not previously experienced in a glass of single malt. In addition to the manner by which Balcones distills its whisky, the extremes of heat and humidity in Texas age the distillate in the barrels in such a way that a completely unique flavour profile is created.
This particular style that Balcones brings to the table was aptly discussed and examined this past June by Wally in his review of the Balcones 1 Texas Single Malt. As with Wally, I’m a big fan of that particular bottle and its bold, rich, oily, brown sugar nectar. Happily, Balcones has a spread of offerings and I’ve enjoyed my time with several of these bottles, including their pot still bourbon and the blue corn whiskies.
One bottle of their “Classic” range that are available year round had eluded me until recently. I finally brought home Balcones’ Lineage Texas Single Malt as having the chance to get my grubby mitts on a different Balcones single malt was something I would not less pass by. I’ve had a great time getting to know it and it’s a compelling pour, especially contrasting it to the Texas 1 Single Malt.
“American single malt varies widely with the wide swath of this country’s geography and the resulting large variance of temperature and humidity.”
With the imminent declaration of a formal category of American Single Malt Whiskey, I’m intrigued by the ever-growing number of American distilleries creating new and varied single malt expressions. It may take some time to take this tour of American single malt adventure – oh shucks and darn! – but I’ve packed my bags and am looking forward to the sampling adventure. For now, I have Balcones’ Lineage in front of me. Next stop? We will see.
Let us all continue to drink with magnificence.
Review
Balcones Lineage Texas Single Malt, SML21-1, Bottled 25/3/21, 47% ABV
$38 and wide availability in the US, occasional international availability.
Nose
That Balcones flavour profile is there: Brown sugar and cloves, while baked bread and fruit influences are in the background. A hint of vanilla is wrapped in there somewhere. As compared to the Texas 1 Single Malt, it’s a bit thinner, more tamed and, in contrast to Texas 1, unmistakable fruit is present. Without doubt, this presents as more mellow and smooth.
Palate
A faint and quick hit of stewed peaches then toffee and cream soda take centre stage, pairing with an accompanying savoury note. It’s bold but not abrupt. Quite an inviting start. Mid-palate, the swirl of flavours moves more toward vanilla, bread, a hint of tangerine and building spices. Those spices become more prevalent on the finish, with cinnamon, clove spice, and oak char that envelops the sinuses. The ending with the spicy notes is quite pleasing but not overpowering. It’s layered. I have the unmistakable feeling I’m sensing but not identifying other flavours. Last week, I had more sensations of banana bread… today not so much. But bottles do evolve over time, and while I don’t get the banana bread today, it’s still delicious.
With a drop of water, the sweet flavours mellow and gel into a more rounded sensation while the spice is toned down and is nicely incorporated into the dram. Everything becomes a smooth experience and all of those aforementioned flavours blend together beautifully; not unlike having all of those flavours literally melt together.
The Dregs
This bottle is another terrific offering from Balcones. When sipping the Lineage, one knows we are walking with the Balcones family when the liquid hits the tongue. And yet there is a wonderful and noticeable difference between this and its landmark older sibling, the brown sugar, burned caramel, and bold flavour of the Texas 1 Single Malt.
For one, Lineage comes from a different recipe. As it says on the back label, Balcones Lineage takes “cues from two distinct approaches to maturation and malted barley.” In researching Lineage, I discovered it’s aged in both refill and new oak barrels. One commentator suggested Balcones uses American, Hungarian, and French oak barrels for Lineage. It’s also made from both Scottish Heritage barley (Golden Promise variety) as well as local, Texas-grown barley (Texas High Plains variety). Next, as I understand the Balcones process, the barley is mashed and fermented at the distillery for a full week before it’s moved to the distillation process. Finally, one source indicates Balcones use a slower-acting yeast with Lineage – as opposed to other, more common yeast strains – and that, in conjunction with double distillation in Balcones’ tall and uniquely shaped copper stills, helps impart its unique flavour. Those ingredients, barrels, and processes all make Lineage a different Balcones, but it clearly is in the family portrait.
The fruitiness and more mellow profile compared to the flagship Texas 1 Single Malt is noticeable, especially with a drop or two of water. Whether it’s the use of the Scottish barley in the mix, or perhaps a different mix of types of oak barrels, or whether this is aged 36 months as opposed to the 24 months for the Texas 1… the result is a Balcones that is a bit more refined, more fruit and vanilla and not as bold. And, as an interesting point, Wally’s bottle of Texas 1 Single Malt had an age statement of 15 months, while the Texas 1 bottle I have says 24 months. The result of my Lineage experience confirms another wonderful, but different, offering from a remarkable distillery.
The fact Lineage is non-chill filtered, has no added colour, and is widely available here in the United States for less than $40 for a bottle, makes this one not to miss.
With apologies to Westland Distillery, Santa Fe Distillery, the Virginia Distillery Co., Westward Distillery, and many other amazing and trailblazing American distilleries at the forefront of the American single malt whiskey revolution, (thanks in part to the Whiskey Tribe) Balcones is, for many, the tip of the American single malt spear. For sure, American single malt varies widely with the wide swath of this country’s geography and the resulting large variance of temperature and humidity. The malts I’ve sampled from the Pacific Northwest, for example, have a different flavour profile than those malts from the American Southwest and Texas. If you’re looking for a malty and smooth American single malt akin to a Deanston 12 or a Glencadam 10, the Balcones Lineage is not for you. But if you’re looking for a rich, fruity, toffee, and cream soda experience, you have found your mark. And this pour is hard to pass up.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. OS
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Other opinions on this:
The Whiskey Tribe (video review)
Scotch Test Dummies (video review)
Got a link to a reliable review? Tell us.
