Official Bottling | 46% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very good indeed.
TL;DR
Have we forgotten how good this is?
From ‘Bottom Shelf’ Malts…
It remains a debate as to whether the selections available from supermarkets (‘multiples’ in trade speak) are a product of our demands, or theirs. It’s likely they are made as cheaply as possible because that’s all your aisle cruiser is willing to pay, either because of conditioning or because they wouldn’t appreciate why they should consider something ‘better’. It’s the same with wine or beer, in our promiscuity or frugality we’ll forgo brand loyalty, ethics and discernment and reach for what’s ‘on offer’. Those labels are highlighted for a reason.
The problem is the supermarket itself, because they’re not giving us anything. The producer is. That ‘reduced’ price you see is the actual price, the ‘normal’ price is elevated. Negotiations, therefore, are based around the lower selling price. This can mean that for producers keen to get the volume sales to add much needed lubricant to their cash flow, their pencils need to be sharper than a box-cutter. I guess the margins suffer, but it’s made lucrative through steady volume - if the production model fits. When did you last see a bottle of Springbank in a supermarket?
So, we’re often told that these whiskies are the gateway bottles for many. I accept that. Although anecdotes of someone who got themselves into whisky appreciation through their love of the cheapest Tesco had on offer are rare. More likely the guiding hand of a friend, a focused event or realisation of sorts was involved; something to plant the concept of a wider experience such as exploration, tasting flavours, enjoyment and contemplation over simply drinking a brand.
In any case, these are some of the reasons we have these price-sensitive bottlings. There are ‘premium’ brands with low-priced entry-point bottlings such as Glenlivet, Talisker, Highland Park, Bunnahabahin, Laphroaig and many more. But some brands are seen as broad-brush ‘cheap’. They remain supermarket fodder. I think that’s a shame. Today, in 2022, in UK supermarket aisles, the brands regularly ‘discounted’ are typically Glen Moray, Jura, Tamnavulin and Ardmore, as well as supermarket (or multiple) only brands such as Aerstone or white label own-brand releases. To the point any regular wouldn’t buy at the ‘normal’ price, they’d simply wait until it appears at the lesser price once more, conditioning their purchasing habits, and reinforcing the concept of a ‘cheap’ whisky. That’s an image that can be tough to shake.
Perhaps that’s not a problem if your malt is, in fact, inferior. Perhaps that’s your sweet spot and you’ll stay there. But I think these malts are capable of being so much more. Take today’s bottle under the microscope - a Speyburn 15 year old.
I hear you! A 15 year old isn’t ‘supermarket fodder’, but stick with me here. This is the modern face of this Rothes malt, there was a time that this brand was, regardless of age statement, very much the preserve of supermarkets. It was not more than five or six years ago that I bought a 25 year old Speyburn Solera, for £60. I made a gift of it, and never got to try it. I always thought I’d be able to pick up another. I never did. Because there was a positioning pivot by owners Inver House and the range was revised. There’s still two 40% ABV entry level malts in the Bradan Orach (skip) and the 10 year (consider), but the 15 and the 18 are now all natural; un-chill filtered, natural colour and 46%, and what a revelation they are. In the US, Speyburn still has, as I understand, a discount-malt image problem. We need to change that. Let me start here.
…to stealth malts
“There are malts out there that for some, often difficult to pinpoint reason, punch a little above their weight.”
I think Speyburn, presented well, is one of those ‘stealth malts’. It’s a fuller, weightier malt than you’d guess from its provenance, to the point, on first pour from their 18 year old a couple of years back, it was reminiscent of a Mortlach to me. It quickly settled to a softer, rounder, fruit-forward profile but there is some sense to that neck pour impression. Despite an industry standard fermentation time, it’s remarkably fruity and it’s said that interest is amped by worm tubs on the spirit still. I think this is best displayed here in their 15 year old expression. It’s remarkably rich and thick; challenging expectations. While it’s rarely discounted these days, it’s priced fairly and I can pretty much guarantee it’s one of those bottles that, even if you decided you didn’t love it immediately, you’d still be happy you have it. It’s an easy one to recommend, especially if you like surprising people. Perhaps even yourself.
Review
Speyburn 15yo Official Bottling 46% ABV
Nose
After the blast of fresh flowers subsides, you’re greeted with thick honey and orange cordial, some eucalyptus, lemon bon-bons and some well in-check wood spices and warm oak. Time and a drop of water brings a green note; flower stalks or nettles.
Palate
Oh this is lovely. Sweetness prevails but it’s never sickly. Think ripe apricots, butterscotch syrup, creamy toffee and honey. The lemon is still there, but sweet - in a limoncello kind of way. This brings a balanced lick of freshness to things, hinting at the mildest effervescence. It stays full, mouth-coating and thick, and can take a drop or two of water to bring along a little spice, but, dare I say, it’s perfect neat. The medium to long finish keeps the sweet lemon going and that curious green note makes an appearance, encouraging you to go back for more.
The Dregs
As the glass drops the rich and full experience reveals more detail as the floral and fresh elements challenge the fruit and sweetness, turning things tropical on occasion. I bumped this from a 6 to a 7 because there are no discernible faults anywhere, perhaps lacking the tiniest hint of grip. I’m confident I’d love this at cask strength. In many ways this is a modern whisky, but a well put together one and, despite a little European oak complimenting the American oak, it’ll more likely please those of a bourbon-maturation bent than those of a sherry persuasion. An excellent malt, an excellent 15 year old and an excellent Speysider. It shouldn’t be anywhere near your bottom shelf.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. WMc
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