Benromach Contrasts Series
Peat Smoke Sherry Cask & Cara Gold Malt | 46% ABV
Score: 6/10
Good Stuff.
TL;DR
More interesting than the core range, but we need more.
Building A Case Against Unmet Expectations
Make no mistake, for malt enthusiasts Benromach is a bright and shining darling among so much Speyside vanilla. I’m not entirely sure why this is but I’ll make a stab at guessing whilst I try to gather evidence to add credibility to my theory that, despite this, they often under-deliver.
Pedigree first: owned by a company known for independent bottlings, they are flying the flag for family ownership and independence and are doing things their way. It’s small-scale but despite limited litres of alcohol per annum, they still manage to produce triple-distilled, heavily-peated and occasional organic spirits as well as their more ‘standard’ lightly-peated style. They have an established core range and also deliver special releases and cask-strength versions. Their prices are very fair and they are of great interest to invested enthusiasts.
Now, indulge me (not for the last time) and re-read that last paragraph one more time but instead of Benromach, think Springbank.
Now, I know there are significant differences between this coastal Speysider and the World’s Best Distillery, but my point is hopefully made – this is the Springbank of its region and I really mean that with the utmost respect, indeed when I inevitably slip from the positive path to kick my way through the weeds of negativity, I do so out of love for the distillery. I need to ask myself though: Why am I so often let down with Benromach releases?
Well, I think it’s when expectations are set high and perhaps end up difficult to meet. Perhaps it’s down to geeks like me who feel Benromach should be much more compelling than it currently is. I’ve got some work to do here to justify that entitlement-laden statement, but I think I have enough circumstantial evidence to make me think I could be on to something.
You see, everything is in place for every whisky that comes from there to be a potential barnstormer. They play fiddle for no one other than themselves and they can release what they like. If they have a look at the vapour that’s currently available from J&A Mitchell’s blueprint-for-single-malt-scotch down in Campbeltown, the board at Gordon & MacPhail must realise it’s a pretty successful model. The greatest part is they needn’t pay a grain of barley to any marketing agencies to spread their unique message or shift their bottles of “hand-made” amber. In 2022, that digital word-of-mouth-generated demand wipes out sought after and admired bottles quicker than an Amazon flash sale. And yet, if we look at their available core line-up, we’d be forgiven for thinking they’ve failed to pluck even the lowest-hanging fruit from the plagiarism tree.
Look, I’ve admitted I love Benromach. So, let’s make this a positivity sandwich.
Firstly, this love is justified by the Benromach flavour profile. It’s not only distinctive and unique, it’s interesting, often dirty and – when poured from a good bottle – quite brilliant in a glass alongside anything else at a similar price. It’s like no other Speysider. You probably need to be looking at expensive Macallans or Mortlachs (please don’t) to get the same attention-grabbing, old-school curiosity tumbling out of your Glencairn – certainly true if you’re in and around the region formerly known as Glenlivet. It’s sure sense for every lover of malt to have at least one Benromach on hand, always. We can romanticise, then, that the “hand-made” side of things has at least left some form of unique and enduring imprint on the final spirit.
I’ll go one further and add another slice of positivity bread. Everyone complaining about the new branding is speaking purely from an emotional perspective (which is of course fine, that’s what the aesthetic side of branding is so much about). However, from a practical sense, everything about the new branding is miles ahead compared to what I, personally, thought to be previously quite weak. The bottles had little shelf presence, especially when only partially full at home or on a gantry. These days they stand out like they’re shouting from the shelf. This is a good thing. I’m also glad to dare to suggest that, unlike some other revamps (I’m looking at you Inver House), the liquid is incrementally better too with each new revision to their aesthetic. A sign of deepening mature stocks perhaps? Except for one small, but ever so important, detail. Here is where we spread a little filler of negativity on things.
Firstly, a little context. Benromach is a new distillery. I know they emboss 1898 on their bottles and that’s correct, but it was actually brought back to life a full 15 years after its closure during the DCL cull of 1983. Gordon & MacPhail spent five years from purchasing to reopening to give us what we have today and, to my knowledge, not a drop has been made for bulk-supply to blends or cask trading. Everything has been made with the concept of a single malt in mind, much like almost every new distillery of this century. Perhaps we should think of it as a renaissance distillery or even a new distillery with a long history?
Anyway, when the first releases were made available from Gordon & MacPhail in the early 2000s, the timing was possibly just a little early. Early as in young, yes, but also because they followed in the tired and diluted presentation of Gordon & MacPhail at 40% ABV and minimal effort on the (even worse!) first tranche of packaging and presentation. To be fair, the fire of natural presentation from ‘craft’ distilleries was merely smouldering at the time. Springbank sat on shelves, the first behind-the-scenes fights for change were just starting at Burn-Stewart, Ardbeg was slowly building widespread awareness for its new and unsullied 10yo, and Bruichladdich were still setting up their own post-revival stall of all things natural. There was, however, enough writing on the wall, but Benromach chose to follow the playbook of blends and mass-market malts (which were seen to compete with those blends), so 40% was their first flagstone and onwards they stepped, conservatively. Understandable, but a shame.
So when we first saw this new bold, socialist-red and bright-white labelling of today, surely I wasn’t the only one that thought they’d gone and done it? By which I mean taken the opportunity to go non-chill filtered, natural colour (while I believe it has always been the case – I mean actually written on the label!) and most importantly for me; 46% ABV. But alas, no. A disappointing 43% for their 10yo, their 15yo and, unforgivably, their precious 21yo. I don’t think I’m being picky here and I don’t think I’m misreading the intended market. This isn’t for your occasional scotch-on-the-rocks Father-in-Law, this is Benromach. It’s small-scale, there’s a story and it’s compelling.
“Only in its very earliest days did the old Benromach make its own bottlings. United Distillers closed the distillery a decade and a half ago, but did subsequently issue one Rare Malts edition, at 20 years old. Apart from that isolated instance, Benromach had for many years been available only in independent bottlings, notably from Gordon & MacPhail. Now, editions from stock bear the proud legend, “bottled by the proprietors”.”
This may land as snobbery, I get it, not all whisky needs to be natural and high ABV and constantly asking for it may become tiresome to many. However, it’s no coincidence that my most recommended releases from Benromach were always their higher-strength versions, such as their much missed 57º proof or their still available cask strength releases, because that extra few percentage points drives an alcohol-derived flavour-delivery system that brings spice, mouthfeel and grip; a perfect match for that old-school, farmyard-and-industry profile they’re known for. So, for me, close but not quite there. I bought the 10yo and the 15yo and found them to be enjoyable but usually keep only the good value 10yo on the shelf.
As if to add a little weight to my tedious whisky-geek demands, let me share something that’s a little interesting. Around the same time, Gordon & MacPhail have increased the minimum presentation of their Distillery Labels series and also their Connoisseur's Choice to 46% ABV and fully natural. Only their Discovery Series will be lower ABV. I couldn’t get a straight answer on chill-filtration – as it’s often not that binary a thing, especially with small batches – but I’ll leave it for you to interpret based on the label statements. Interesting though, right?
Anyway, what to do with Benromach? Well, my final piece of circumstantial evidence is also our final slice to top our positivity sandwich – they’ve actually offered us a little of what we’ve been asking for. Hallelujah!
Enter their Contrasts series.
As the point of writing, four of these have been released; an organic version, a 55ppm malt-spec Peat Smoke version, another of the same but a sherry cask matured version exclusively from first-fill sherry hoggies, and finally the Cara Gold malt release. We’ll focus on the last two of those today but the great news is they are all fully natural. At first they appear NAS, but all are actually labelled as vintages. Nice. It seems possible there’s a little natural garnish available for our geek sandwich. I bought two without trying (okay the Cara Gold I tried at the end of a palate-saturating but fun and blurry club night, but that doesn’t count). So confident am I in their profile that, coupled with the bottle specs and fair pricing, it was a confident click on the “add to basket” button.
So, let’s take a couple of bites from our sandwich and see how it tastes. To add a layer of value to these reviews, the Cara Gold was also sent out to Dallas and Dougie. It was sent blind from a freshly-opened bottle and they had no idea what they were tasting. Their thoughts are included here. But you only need to care about mine.
Review
Benromach Contrasts Peat Smoke Sherry Cask 46% ABV
£48 and still widely available
Nose
A smoky and heady sherry greeting. Black treacle and orange peel draw you towards the aromatic end of things; a tobacco pouch, beeswax, sandalwood, damp leather and woodshed. There’s a savoury side too and, helped by the smoke, it comes off a little like bacon crisps. Time and a drop of water brings a little plum and dried fruit along with the citrus theme.
Palate
The smoke, spice and sherry all arrive in decent and balanced proportions, but none are particularly compelling. A jagged sharpness existed on the first glass or two from the bottle, but that’s been tempered in the open bottle. It’s softer than I remember from the uncorking. Black pepper has moved to softer spices such as cinnamon and a little background char. There’s a heavy and dark honey laced with sweet oranges amongst a pot pourri of sweet and ripe citrus. It has a medium finish that dries to a slight bitterness.
Score 6/10 WMc
Score: 5/10
Average. In a Good Way.
TL;DR
Gets better with patience, but again, a great idea that falls a little short.
Review
Benromach Contrasts Cara Gold Malt 46% ABV
£48 and widely available
Nose
Lemon fondant, butter popcorn and rubbing alcohol with a little soot. Barley malt (obv. I know but you don’t always get it on the nose!) and lightly-honeyed porridge. Some icing sugar and I’m chasing a resinous note, not unlike pine needles.
Palate
Creamy arrival, buttery and soft. It moves on to a soft pepper spice but that popcorn thing with the cereals I found on the nose is here. A little honey, sweet lemon bonbons and vanilla cream soda, some youthfulness and fresh, sweet pear and apples. The soot persists, but it’s backstage. A little linseed oil, like putty or perhaps oil paint. The short to medium finish leaves a slight bitter, metallic note, some chalkiness and the sense of a pretty young spirit. I was actively looking for brine and convinced myself I found it.
The Dregs
I am slightly surprised by this. Firstly, it does get better as you enjoy it and there is a nice, unctuous mouthfeel on arrival, even if it doesn’t persist. But that’s kind of the main event and the only thing to make you go back. I am somewhat curious as to why it’s not 100% Cara Gold malt that’s been used here, perhaps it was unpeated and they wanted the lightly peated house style? Perhaps it was too expensive or just needed to be tamed a little with the standard malt? Either way, it leaves me curious.
It may help you to know that, oddly, I’d take away this one as a personal preference, and I know I’d be in the minority in doing so. The Sherry Cask is the more expressive - and I’ve scored it higher – but this is more interesting. Still, despite me not being upset with the purchase, I won’t replace it. It’s curious but ultimately tastes a little too young, even with its vintage statement suggesting 11 to 12 years. It plays more like a 7 or 8 year old.
I think what we need from Benromach is the standard age-stated range amped. I’ll pay them a little more for the privilege and the extra 3% ABV. They can keep the money they’ll save from not chill-filtering, which will help them hit their environmental targets a little too. Those are the bottles I’d like to get to know, drawn from deeper stocks and displaying a much more cohesive example of what this unique distillery is all about. I hope these releases, as well as the Gordon & MacPhail upgrades, are softening the ground for that to happen.
Both of these are worthy bottles and fairly priced, but ultimately, frustratingly, still not quite there. So close though.
Score 5/10 WMc
(As a bonus our own Clyde Sutherland polished off a bottle of this during a liberal birthday sharing session and declares it a 5/10)
Dallas’ Blind Notes
Nose
The danger is you let the lack of colour act as a form of misdirection to your senses. Saline, a gentle smokiness that reminds me to buy bacon crisps again. Old pine cones and apples, chalk, crushed pebbles, white chocolate and strawberries deep within, wrapped in cereals. Vanilla icing.
Palate
Bogging sums this one up. The cask feels damp, mossy and lacking character. Peppery on the finish. Like the dregs of a pond when there’s nothing left to drink. Down the sink. I’d rather drink Jura (but not Waterford as we have to draw the line somewhere).
The Dregs
A decent enough nose, but very disappointing when you moved into tasting the whisky. It just didn’t sit well with me at all.
Score: 3/10 DM
Dougie’s Blind Notes
Nose
Oil paints. With the lid on the glass for a while, I get melon and mango – like a summery fresh fruit salad. I’m getting a lot of memories popping up from travelling around France: window boxes in Vezalay, French pastry shops and hay fields. Also French supermarkets: That sweet smell of confectionary but with a tart edge of the cheese section permeating through it. Freshly cut grass – the first time I’ve ever smelled this in a whisky. Dying barbeque smokey wisp.
Palate
Oil paints and medicinal notes. Oily and slightly astringent with a salty finish. The chemical oil paint note seems to be all I’m able to take away from this. There’s an astringent finish, feeling like I’ve sucked on too many boiled sweets of an afternoon. Agricultural - like fields on the wind.
Score 4/10 DC
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. WMc
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Other opinions on this:
Trenny and C (Peat Smoke)
Whiskybase (Cara Gold)
Whislkybase (Peat Smoke)
Got a link to a reliable review? Tell us.
