‘Whisky Desert’ Duo

North Carolina American Whiskies | various ABV

 

Desert Blooms

The State of North Carolina. The Tar Heel State. Also The ABC State - The Whiskey Desert. 

While I miss perusing aisles of single malt expressions in a well stocked liquor store, living here in eastern North Carolina is still lovely. I am a transplant, but after a few years I do feel as if I was meant to be here. I have blended in with the locals and I do enjoy it. 

And yet… did I mention that I miss the ability to have a proper bottle hunt without internet logins, auction taxes/fees/shipping costs, or driving many hours to non-ABC states? As I have stated previously, the ABC stores near me are almost always laughable when it comes to finding any good and unique whiskies other than bourbon and rye. 

That does not stop me, however, from going to the ABC store from time to time. There is a part of me, not unlike a crazed masochist, that compels me to go to look at the selection to make sure – just in case – there might be a pleasant surprise. I have been here more than two years and I believe I have only purchased, perhaps, three or four bottles that have not been bourbon or rye. And yet, I still go with a glimmer of hope, despite routine disappointment. 

When I walk in the door of the local ABCs, I cannot help but recall visions of liquor stores I have frequented in Connecticut, or the Total Wine mega store in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina (a three to four hour drive), or those fleeting thoughts and memories of stocked shelves in the UK whether at The Good Spirits Company in Glasgow or The Whisky Exchange in London. And then, reality smacks me squarely in the chops when I glance down the limited “Scotch” aisle minimally populated with one single malt expression each from well-known brands such as Highland Park (the 12), Ardbeg (Uigeadail), GlenAllachie (the 12), Laphroaig (Quarter Cask), The Singleton, Auchentoshan (the Three Wood), Glenfiddich (the 12), Glenmorangie (the 10), Macallan (the 12)... you get the gist. I still stroll down the aisle on the off chance that someone made a mistake and actually ordered a Wire Works, an Ardnahoe, a Cotswolds, a Lagg or, I dare to dream, a breakthrough that would allow the first independent bottling - of any kind. 

Usually, the dream evaporates, as expected, rather quickly. I then often turn to peruse the bourbon and rye aisles as I keep up-to-date with those whiskies through online reading and watching a few YouTube channels. 

Lather, rinse, repeat. And, most usually, I let out a deep sigh of disappointment as I exit the store.

However, as of 2025, the ABC stores near me have introduced a small section dedicated to local, home-grown, in-state North Carolina products. When I say “small section”, it is three stacked shelves, each roughly three feet wide. Vodka, gin, bourbon, rye, and moonshine take up most of the space. Yet, while peach moonshine is not going to get me to do anything but chuckle and shake my head, I am glad to say that over the past several months I have found two items that piqued my interest. Single malt? Blended malt? Here? From North Carolina? Yes, indeed. 

Each appeared interesting enough – each in their own way – for me to make a purchase. I knew these would be very different interpretations of malted barley whiskey, but I am glad to have these in my cabinet to expand my whisky taste library. 

Maybe this whiskey desert has a few oases that provide blooms from time to time.

 

 

Review 1/2

Oak & Grist Blended Malted Whiskey, Release No. 1, 100% locally malted barley, 25 gallon new American oak cask with level 4 char, 82% aged 8½ months, 18% new make, bottle 832 of 846, 50% ABV
USD$29 paid (£22) 375ml bottle, local availability

When I first came across this 375ml bottle of “blended malt”, I examined the label’s front and I was curious. I turned the bottle to read the side, and read the specs. Er . . . what?!  82% aged for less than nine months and the remaining 18% of the liquid in the bottle was new make??  I had to say, curiosity killed the cat on this one. As it was half of a standard bottle and the price was commensurate, I couldn’t put it down. I had to try this stuff.

For those Dramface Colonials Podcast listeners – and that should mean all of you – this first expression was discussed on the Colonials Pod #10, and it caused a bit of a stir from Roy who was more than a little astonished at the specs and the labeling.

 

Score: 5/10

Average. In a good way.

TL;DR
Still good enough to make me want to take the long drive to visit

 

Nose

White pepper and grocery store peaches (by “grocery store peaches” I mean those pieces of fruit that have been sitting in a warehouse and on transport for months. You get some peach flavor, but not so juicy and a bit tired). There is the new make ethanol scent that is ever-present, but while it makes itself known it is surprisingly not overpowering or off-putting. Vegetal. Celery stalks and potter’s clay mixes with the scents of browned butter.

 

Palate

Though only 50% ABV, this absolutely has a 60%-and-above-ABV cask strength feel. For those of you who have had Alberta Premium cask strength rye, it is close to that. Prickly and lots of edges, but not in a bad way. Strange to say, but the edges and brutish force of the ethanol set the stage but are not the only players. On the stage, also, are toffee, black cherry, and pipe tobacco notes. Canned vanilla icing is here. The finish is long and brash. White pepper and that black cherry come through the retronasal once I breathe out. A nice warmth in my jowls and in the back of my throat. It is intriguing, unique, and unapologetically audacious and vivacious.

 

The Dregs

This will never be aligned with, nor mistaken for, any Scotch single malt I have ever had.

This North Carolina “blended whiskey” – which, of course, does not translate to the terminology of the S.W.A. – is wholly unique and, I must say, rather interesting. I was, frankly, expecting only jet fuel and happily that is not what I found.

When I first uncorked the bottle and made my way through a few drams over the course of a month or so, I would think of my Mother’s encouragement to me and my brother when we were boys as we balked at eating the vegetables on our dinner plates. “It will put hair on your chest!” she’d say. A dram of this, with one fifth of its composition being new make, might just actually put hair on your chest.

In all seriousness, this whiskey has its own character. It is unique, and as I nosed and tasted it over several sittings, I was able to comb through my palate with inquisitiveness which enabled me to appreciate the flavors. I detached myself from trying to compare it to well known and loved Scotch single malts, and as I let those pre-conceived comparisons go, I started to appreciate this little curiosity. It is edgy and punchy, for sure. But it also brings interesting flavors to the table. 

No one will ever sip this and say it was bland, nor could they say it was not interesting. (This is not the same kind of “interesting” that came with my sampling of St. George’s Baller expression, to be sure.)  Yes, I do like things that are different. This dram makes me think about the liquid and how it might develop if left in casks for a few years. The liquid in my glass is intriguing, full of character, and an interesting change of pace. It has been an interesting veer from the usual.

In looking up the distillery online, I see it is toward the other side of the state in Black Mountain. Presently, on their website they have a number of single malt expressions, an American whiskey expression, and some genever, but this “blended malt whiskey” does not appear. There is not a bottling date or code on my bottle, so I have no idea how long this was sitting on a shelf or in an ABC warehouse before it found its way to my neck of the woods.

Their other expressions – and one with an age statement of five years – has me curious. Oak and Grist was founded in 2015 to craft regionally inspired single malt (their words). Reading further on their website, they state:

“From our award-winning Genever-Inspired Gin, to our oaky American Malt Whiskey, to our deliciously smooth Single Malt Whiskey, we only ever start with locally grown and malted barley at our Asheville distillery.

“By brewing, fermenting, distilling, and aging our own whiskey from local grains, we can offer a greater connection between producer, consumer, and place. By taking that whiskey and re-distilling it along with eight carefully selected botanicals into our gin, we reward the curious. By teasing subtle and well-rounded flavors out of our barrels, we excite the connoisseur.

“Starting from scratch here at Oak and Grist leads us to support our local farmers, craftspeople, and non-profit organizations that better our community.”

I look forward to Mrs. Shaw and I taking a six hour drive out to this distillery to get a better feel and taste for this place and its wares.

As for scoring, my gut tells me this is between a 4 and a 5. And, when I go back to look at the Dramface Scoring Guide, it falls in both categories. A 4/10 says the whiskey has “some promise” and that while a 4/10 whisky would have some redeeming qualities it annoyingly hasn’t come together as hoped, with work required. This Oak and Grist certainly does have redeeming qualities, but I don’t mistake the edginess and punchiness as that the liquid hasn’t come together. It is what it is – anyone who pairs, with intent, whiskies of less than nine months and new make isn’t creating a luscious and rounded dram. 

On the other hand, a 5/10 says that the whisky is average, in a positive way. The 5/10 whisky has flashes of promise, and at least one memorable note, but sits comfortable in the middle of the pack. The first part of that definition holds true here, but I cannot say this sits comfortably in the middle of the pack. 

I do like this whiskey. But it is a 4.5/10, and for purposes of scoring, I have rounded up to the 5/10 that you see – but please understand my scoring with the paragraph here.

Interesting. Bold. Rough. And glad to have purchased this experience for the whisky cabinet.

 

Score: 5/10

 

 

Review 2/2

Chemist Spirits, American Single Malt Whiskey, 45% ABV
USD$60 paid (£45) 750ml bottle, local availability

Along with my Dramface colleague Eallair, I read about American Single Malt – though certainly not as in depth as my buddy. Within the articles I read, I saw mention of Chemist Spirits of North Carolina. That, of course, got my attention.

So, when I was in the ABC store a few months ago and I saw this bottle from Chemist Spirits, there was some name recognition. I examined the bottle’s label which looks nice, but did not have much transparency regarding specs. I then did a Google search on my phone.

Chemist Spirits is on the other side of North Carolina – I’m on the east side by the Atlantic, and Chemist on the west side in Asheville near the Appalachian Mountains. Actually, Chemist Spirits is just up the road from Oak and Grist. I read about the distillery’s founding and was genuinely intrigued, and that prompted the purchase.

Score: 6/10

Good stuff.

TL;DR
Despite a lack of transparency, it’s good enough to make me happy

Nose

Dried fruit. Dried and a bit dusty. Dried figs, dried cherries, dried apples. A hint of Play Doh, which gives me a bit of pause. Chiclets candy. A foil to the dried and dusty is a background waft of petrichor; wet leaves in an autumn’s leaf pile after yard cleanup. Oddly, the scent of unwrapping a salt caramel KIND bar. But, through it all is the dried fruit.

 

Palate

Somewhat quiet, and not unexpected for 45% ABV. That dried fruit is here, sans the dust. While not dusty, the fruit is tame. Apples and cherries. Figs are here along with some casaba melon. A hint of sencha green tea. The finish is nice, and despite the somewhat quiet palate, it builds a bit with some warmth. A hint of vanilla fudge comes with the finish. Nothing overly complex, but solid. A nice dram. Very pleasant.

 

The Dregs

I reached out to Chemist Spirits via their website’s email as I had questions about the age of the liquid, whether it had been chill filtered, if it was natural color, and to understand more about the casks that were used.

I quickly received a response, answering all my questions. I am happy to report that the liquid in my glass looks as if it comes from people with purpose. I am told:

“Our flagship American Single Malt that we are currently producing is aged just over three years, though some components rest a bit longer depending on the barrel. While there’s no age statement on the label, patience definitely plays a role in how it comes together, and we're just starting to enjoy the fruits of this mature product! Our goal long-term is to have a product more consistently at the 4 year mark. 

“The whiskey is non chill-filtered and bottled without any artificial coloring. What you’re seeing in the glass is exactly what comes from the barrel!

“We age it in 53-gallon new American oak barrels with a #3 char (on a scale of 1-5). That choice brings structure and depth while still letting the malt character shine. 

“One other piece of information that is quite special to this product is the mashbill. We use a unique combination of three distinct styles of malted barley (including a Dark Munich Malt), which creates a layered, well-rounded profile and really showcases both local grain and creative craftsmanship.”

This type of information is wonderful to receive – though it is in stark contrast to the bottle, itself, which only has the usual, marketing terminology:

“Produced in small batches using direct fired copper stills and aged to perfection in charred American Oak barrels”

“Elegantly smooth and complex”

“Handmade”

More importantly, though, there is one amazing kernel of information lodged amidst the website’s pages. I see that Chemist Spirits was founded, and is run by, a mother and daughter team. How cool is that?  And, by the way, the daughter is an actual chemist. 

This is a great story, and when I get out to that part of the state, I will look forward to visiting this distillery along with Oak and Grist. Good things are happening here in the Tar Heel State, as it turns out, and I hope to bring voice to good liquid coming from this great seat of the South.

I can quibble (and I do) about Chemist’s transparency on the bottle label and in its website, but at the end of the day a bottle’s liquid is what does the talking. This is good whiskey. This makes me happy. My state’s ABC system is abysmal, but it has allowed me to peek into local distilleries and their American single malt varieties that give me hope.

Very glad to report on a few blossoms from the Whisky Desert.

 

Score: 6/10

 

Tried these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. OS

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Other opinions on these:

Oak & Grist Whiskybase

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Ogilvie Shaw

As his kids grow and flee the nest, ex-lawyer Ogilvie needs something else to distract his curious mind. As he ponders the possibilities that lie among more recreational years ahead, he’s excited by how much whisky time he may be able to squeeze in. If we can raise his attention from his seriously immersive whisky studies, we may just get him sharing some of his New England wisdom on Dramface. Let’s have it Ogilvie; what are you learning? We’re all ears.

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